St. Petersburg Times Online: Taste

Weather | Sports | Forums | Comics | Classifieds | Calendar | Movies

The Floridian's Cuban sandwiches are divine

By KATHY SAUNDERS

© St. Petersburg Times, published April 27, 2000


TREASURE ISLAND -- Pressed Cuban bread is the secret at The Floridian. Every time we have ordered from the beach sandwich shop, we have been delighted with the freshness of the bread. It was no different on a recent weekend visit.

We phoned ahead to place our order, although it usually doesn't take more than a couple of minutes to prepare the sandwiches even when we don't call beforehand. Recent renovations have provided a nice seating area outside for dining or waiting.

Ten minutes later, everything was ready and packaged at the counter. We added a sugar cookie and a Hatuey Cuban beer at the register.

The sandwiches were warm when we got the bag home a few minutes later. We started with the Spanish bean soup -- a hearty blend of garbanzo beans, ham, pork, sausage and potatoes. The soup was hot, chunky and tasty. It wasn't very spicy, just flavored with plenty of meats.

The soup came as part of a Cuban sandwich combo ($4.49).

The sandwich was loaded with ham, spiced pork, Genoa salami, imported Swiss cheese, dill pickles, mustard and mayonnaise -- just like the menu promised. It was divine.

Nine inches of sandwich is pretty big, but we managed to scarf it down, along with a nine-inch ham and Swiss cheese ($3.99) version as well.

The ham was thinly sliced and piled so high that it was still thick after being pressed with heat. The restaurant left the pickles, mustard and mayonnaise on the side as I had requested.

As always, the fresh bread did not get soggy with the meats or hard with the pressing. The Floridian bread was soft in the center and just crusty enough on the outside to crunch.

We treated ourselves to a deviled crab ($1.39). It was prepared Tampa style -- stuffed, breaded and fried. We enjoyed the soft crab and the hot sauce that was provided on the side.

The Hatuey Cuban beer ($1.99) was brewed in the United States. The flavor was soothing on a hot spring day.

We couldn't resist a dessert. The Floridian offers flan (vanilla custard with caramel sauce) for $1.59 and sugar cookies for 49 cents. The cookies are just the right size -- not giant. And they aren't too sweet either. I wish I could bake them to the same consistency. But at that price, I can afford to buy a dozen.

The Floridian offers its Cuban sandwich in a footlong bun as well for $5.39. Other sandwich specialties include spiced pork, turkey, tuna and roast beef for $4.89. A cheese sandwich with imported Swiss cheese, pickles, peppers, onions, mustard and mayonnaise is another popular seller.

The "combos" include half a sandwich with a choice of 8 ounces of black bean soup, Spanish bean soup or beans and rice. The Cuban and salami combos are $4.49. Most of the others are $4.79.

Black beans and yellow rice sell for $3.99 by the plate or $2.59 for a bowl. Both are served with chopped onion and the restaurant's Cuban toast.

We got a sample of the toasted Cuban bread with our order. Like the sandwiches, it was crunchy on the outside and soft and buttery within. Cuban toast on the side sells for 39 cents or 79 cents. Other side dishes include a stuffed potato ($1.39), potato chips (69 cents) or plantain chips (59 cents).

The Floridian offers a variety of soft drinks and coffee along with pear, mango and guava nectar. All of the drinks, including beer, are priced under $2.

Party trays are another option at The Floridian. The restaurant will prepare Cuban finger sandwiches to serve six to eight people for $22.

The Floridian

230 Treasure Island Causeway

Phone: (727) 367-6662

Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Consumers: Two adults

What we got: Cuban sandwich, bowl of Spanish bean soup, one deviled crab, ham and cheese sandwich on Cuban bread, Cuban toast with butter, one sugar cookie and a bottle of Cuban beer.

What it cost: $13.22

Time it took: 10 minutes

Pay with: Cash or personal checks

Delivery: Free on weekdays from 10:30 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. to Treasure Island, St. Pete Beach, Madeira Beach, South Pasadena, Tyrone area and Central Avenue.

© Copyright, St. Petersburg Times. All rights reserved.