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Gardening tipsBy OPAL W. SCHALLMO and NANCY R. VOLMAR © St. Petersburg Times, published May 19, 2001 Storing excess seedsFlower or vegetable seeds left over after spring planting often may be kept for next year. Place dry seeds in a glass jar and seal with an airtight lid. Keep the jar in the refrigerator, where the temperature will range between 35 and 55 degrees. Some seeds lose their viability quickly, so do not expect 100 percent germination next season. Flower maintenanceWhen gardenias finish blooming, prune and shape the shrubs, fertilize with an acid food and replenish old mulch. Gardenias often bloom again on new growth. Pruning poinsettias produces prettier, fuller plants. When the new growth reaches 12 inches, it should be pruned back, leaving three or four leaves on the new stem. As new shoots develop, they also should be pruned back when they reach 12 inches. This type of pruning can continue until September. Use an acid fertilizer on poinsettias to keep the foliage green. Magnesium deficiencies may yellow the older leaves. Apply magnesium sulfate according to label directions. Watch for spider mites and treat with a miticide if necessary. Chrysanthemums make nice bedding plants but become leggy if not properly pruned. Small flowered varieties should be pinched when they are 6 to 8 inches high. Unless these growing tips are pinched, plants may develop tall, weak stems, which produce only a few flowers. After you pinch, new branches will develop. Pinch all shoots every two weeks until June 10 for early varieties and July for later varieties. Flowers will not form if you continue to pinch later than this. Powdery mildewCrape myrtle, gardenias, roses, zinnias, squash and melons sometimes are damaged by powdery mildew. This fungal disease develops during cooler nights in humid weather and shows up as a white powdery substance on the upper leaf surface or around flower buds. Remove infected plant parts, if possible, then spray with a fungicide such as Duosan, Zyban, Triforine or Banner. Use these fungicides at the rate recommended on the label. Spider mitesSpider mites are a big problem on many plants during warm weather. Signs of mite infestation are chlorotic (yellow) spots on leaves, rusty needles on junipers and the stippling of leaves. When the infestation is heavy, you may be able to see webs, especially on the underside of the leaves. They can be controlled by using Kelthane or Orthene. The lovebug is backLovebugs are in the air again. As in every other year, we can offer only our sympathy, especially to those who have to travel through the state during daylight hours. The larval stage of the lovebug feeds on leaf mold, making it difficult, if not impossible, to control. It does not bite or sting and is active for four to six weeks. Smashed bugs should not be left on your car; they can damage paint. A strong detergent solution works best for removal. Sand fliesSand flies are small insects often called punkies or no-see-ums because they are so small that they can enter through standard 16-mesh window screen. Sand flies are a member of the Diptera order and undergo a complete development with egg, larva, pupa and adult. They breed usually in salt marshes, but some species are found in freshwater areas and tree cavities. The adult females, like mosquitoes, require blood to mature the eggs. These pests are prevalent year around, but the greatest adult activity occurs from June to August. Sand flies are affected by air movement and are sensitive to temperature. Fogging around shrubbery and other vegetation or hiding areas will afford some control. Products to use in lawn mower foggers or hand-held foggers can be purchased at hardware stores or garden centers. - Compiled by Opal W. Schallmo and Nancy R. Volmar of the Pinellas County Extension Service. If you have questions, call them at (727) 582-2100.
 © 2006 • All Rights Reserved • St. Petersburg Times
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