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Formers fans welcome back the Kingfish
By KATHY SAUNDERS © St. Petersburg Times, published May 23, 2001 MADEIRA BEACH -- When we ordered dinner from the new Kingfish restaurant, we were looking forward to the familiar breaded grouper dinner with mushrooms that we had enjoyed many times at the former location in Treasure Island. We got what we had expected, but it took a bit longer. Driving from the south beaches to the Kingfish now requires crossing the John's Pass Bridge. We got caught both ways, which added an extra 15 minutes to our trip. The delays took a little of the steam out of my grouper meal, but not the taste. The fish ($14.95) was perfectly cooked. It was topped with an herbed bread-crumb coating and sauteed in butter. On the side was a huge serving of large, buttery mushrooms. We also sampled a shrimp stir-fry meal ($8.95) filled with fresh goodies. The shrimp were plentiful, and the dish also included rice, Chinese noodles, onions, corn, carrots, peas, cauliflower, broccoli, mushrooms, squash and zucchini. The appetizer portion ($5.95) probably would have been enough. The stir fry selections also include chicken and scallops. The house salad ($3.25) was impressive, with red onions, carrots, tomatoes and freshly grated Parmesan. It came with a homemade vinaigrette that was tangy but still delicate. The bowl of clam chowder was divided into two smaller containers, which made it easier for us to share. It was filled with clams, potatoes and carrots but wasn't too thick and lumpy. We found the consistency just right. This year the Kingfish opened in its new location after being closed for the past several years. It used to be across the street from Gators Cafe & Saloon on Treasure Island -- on the south side of the John's Pass Bridge. Owner Agnes Rice opened the original Kingfish along Gulf Boulevard in 1945 with her late husband, Charlie. Kingfish house favorites are marked on the menu with little king mackerels. They include oyster stew, a porterhouse steak and a smoked fish spread appetizer. The restaurant also offers chicken, pasta dishes and pork chops for landlubbers. Another popular item was gulf tuna, which we would have tried if we didn't have a refrigerator full of it ourselves. We knew the tuna would be fresh; my husband caught some of the same fish in the gulf that week when he hooked up with one of the captains who supplies fish to the restaurant. Fresh grouper sandwiches ($9.95) are served fried, blackened, grilled or broiled and served with french fries, pasta or rice. Caesar salads also come with grouper, shrimp or chicken if desired. The dessert menu is short but sweet. We originally ordered a slice of deep-dish apple pie, but the restaurant was out of it that evening. Our second choice was a chocolate cake on display. But the host suggested we try the Florida Orange Sunshine Cake instead ($4.95). We took her advice and were pleased. The slice was a bright orange color and flavored with real orange slices. It was topped with orange buttercream frosting, white chocolate chips and fresh whipped cream. It seemed light, but it was sinfully rich. We loved it. The Kingfish has a brunch buffet on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. The $16.95 meal includes samples of the restaurant's fresh fish as well as salmon and shrimp, omelets and roast turkey. PINELLAS TO GOKingfish Restaurant13155 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach Phone: 394-7421 Hours: 4-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4-10 p.m. Sundays Consumers: Two adults What we got: Grouper Martinique with garlic butter and herb sauce, shrimp stir fry dinner, house salad, a bowl of clam chowder and a slice of orange cake What it cost: $34.03 Time it took: 15 minutes Pay with: Cash or major credit cards
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From the Times Taste section From the features wire |
