Hot and cold

By MICHAEL BENANAV

© St. Petersburg Times, published May 28, 2000

These desert oases are not mirages, but real delights on the desolate rural Eqyptian landscape.

Islands of greenery in an endless sea of sand, the Western Oases are Egypt's secluded jewels. Scattered in the desert 100 to 300 miles west of the Nile Valley, the five oases reward the traveler with spectacular scenery, intriguing towns made of mud, ancient sites and modern Muslims, greeting you with open hearts. Visitors usually are free to explore unassailed by the hassles of the major tourist stops.

A sense of intimacy prevails in the oases as nowhere else in Egypt. It is easy to get close to the villagers and the natural environment. More cherished than my memories of pyramids and temples are those of the land and people of these remote parts.

If you've never heard of the oases, it may be because they lack high Pharonic artwork, and these places demand time that many vacationers cannot afford. This is what makes them worthwhile -- rural life persists untainted by foreigners and their money. Best of all, if you've seen one oasis, you have not seen them all -- each has a character of its own.

I began a three-week solo journey through the oases at Kharga, the southernmost village. The direct train from Luxor was convenient but long. It stops frequently so sand can be cleared from the tracks. As the only tourist on the train, I was treated to lunch and friendly conversation by the Egyptians in my car, most of whom were soldiers.

Stepping into Kharga, I knew I had entered another Egypt, uncrowded and altogether pleasant. I wandered through the market and was never approached to buy anything.

There is little to keep the visitor in Kharga, but if you stay overnight I recommend the Hotel Dar-by-Dar, across the square from the bus station. The owners are kind, and were willing to let a room for half price, 10 Egyptian Pounds (about $3 at current exchange rates), as the hotel wasn't full. They offered me to show me Kharga's sites for no charge.

A single highway links four of the oases, to each other and to major cities on the Nile. Interoasis travel is by bus or microbus (a crowded minivan).

I took a microbus bulging with locals about 115 miles west, to Dakhla Oasis. Its largest town is Mut, but the place to be is the smaller, 1,000-year-old Al-Qasr.

To walk through the labyrinthine mud town is to step back in time. Narrow alleyways twist and curve in no apparent pattern. Three-story houses are built over the streets, creating a network of tunnels supported by palm trunks, a fortress against the sun.

Just when you think you are coming to a dead end, there's a low door and a passage to another street. Disorientation is part of the fun, as is the feeling that around every bend you might witness any exotic scene from the past 10 centuries.

The desert behind the town offers days of exploring. Walk past the conical mud crypts and the dirt soccer field, onto the multicolored plateau. A rugged ridge looms on the horizon. Massive sand slopes, which are easy to climb, rise to the peaks. The views from the top are inspiring -- better is taking off your shoes and leaping down hundreds of feet of steep sand! Prehistoric sharks' teeth can be found near the cliffs.

Or turn right, once atop the plateau, and look for a spot of green in the distance. This is a natural hot spring, about 3 miles from Al-Qasr. The walk is easy, with no worries of getting lost.

For the less intrepid, you'll find a lovely place in town's the numerous gardens, and frequent invitations to share tea with a villager.

There's only one hotel in town (6 EGP) and no restaurants, save what the hotel manager can create. Avoid the streetside falafal stand if you value your stomach.

After five days in Dakhla, I caught the bus to Farafra Oasis, 180 miles northwest. The town lacks the mystique of Al-Qasr, but the natural surroundings more than compensate. There are a number of hot springs and a cold spring-fed lake, a godsend in summertime.

The main reason to go to Farafra is the White Desert, Egypt's version of Monument Valley.

A young man I befriended in Al-Qasr told me, "The White Desert is the most amazing place in all Egypt. If you haven't seen the White Desert, you haven't see Egypt!" He was right.

Forty miles north of Farafra, in the middle of nowhere, bizarre rock formations emerge from the desert floor. The small ones, 20 feet high, look like an army of camels drowned by sand -- just wind-carved humps clearing the surface. But immense limestone megaliths form massive cathedrals and soaring obelisks.

The rock towers recede in rows to create grand avenues of sand, giving the impression of a magnificent white city. The two days and nights I spent roaming this otherworldly land and sleeping beneath the stars were unforgettable.

Jeep tours, including food and a local guide, are easy to arrange from Farafra. I simply got a ride in a truck, got off in the desert and started walking. There are no restrictions here, though I heard rumors that it is illegal to explore west of the highway. Be sure to bring food, a sleeping bag and plenty of water. Basic supplies can be bought in Farafra. Beware of the heat; seek shade when necessary. In summer, it is dangerous to walk too far between 11 a.m. and 5 p.m.

While in Farafra, don't miss the gallery of Badr, a prominent Egyptian artist. Even better than the work is the man himself, incredibly friendly and happy to talk, drink tea and smoke a waterpipe with visitors.

The one hotel in Farafra is excellent and clean, with amiable staff and a variety of lodging options for all budgets. You can pitch a tent in the courtyard and use the showers for a nominal fee.

North of the White Desert lies Bahariyya Oasis, famous for its olives and dates. The village of Bawiti is the site of a major archaeological find -- a tomb complex filled with mummies. It may not be open to tourists.

Though there are few attractions, I had one of my more memorable experiences here. A 16-year-old boy engaged me in a theological debate, in a combination of Arabic and hand gestures, attempting to convert me to Islam. Though we did not see eye-to-eye about God, he invited me to his house, where I was greeted warmly by his family, who were grateful to welcome a stranger. We shared a marvelous evening of good, conversation and laughter.

Such hospitality is common in the oases and makes them among the most rewarding places to visit in Egypt.

For the budget traveler, Bawiti's hotel of choice is the Paradise, in the center of town. Sparse and somewhat buggy, it's only 3 EGP. For more comfort at a higher price, stay at the Alpenblick.

Buses run daily to Cairo, but be sure to get your ticket a day in advance if you don't want to get stuck in Bawiti. I did not plan ahead and was lucky to get the last seat on the bus.

Though there is a road from Bawiti to Siwa Oasis, near the Libyan border, it is rarely traveled. To reach it, I went via Cairo and Alexandria, on the highway that runs along the Mediterranean coast.

Though farthest from the Nile, Siwa is the most-visited oasis. A miracle of lushness in a sub-sea-level wasteland, palm groves with fresh-water springs stretch below rocky plateaus. Its deserved reputation is of peaceful beauty and traditional Muslim customs: Women rarely appear in public. When they do, they are fully covered, wearing gloves and veils without eye-slits.

The prime place for views is Gebel Dakrur. I spent a night atop this mesa on the oasis' edge, witness to a fiery sunset mirrored by the large Lake Siwa and dunes that roll to the horizon.

Other sites include the ancient hilltop home of an oracle often consulted by Alexander the Great.

To cool off from the oppressive heat, I spent an afternoon at Cleopatra's Bath, a deep stone pool 3 miles from the center of town. It is great for a swim with the locals, who splash and play here, though Western women should be cautious about doing so.

To get around, I rented a bike from my hotel, walked and hitched rides from trucks and donkey carts.

Two popular hotels include the Palm Tree Hotel and the Yousef Hotel. Both are 5 EGP and are decent.

-- Michael Benanav is a freelance writer living in Dixon, N.M.

If you go

You can take buses from Cairo and Alexandria to the oases. Some practical notes:

Money: There is nowhere to change foreign currency to Egyptian pounds in the oases, so bring enough cash.

Language: Arabic. Fewer people speak English than in the rest of Egypt -- bring a phrasebook.

Customs: Wear long pants and shirts that cover your shoulders. Women also should wear slacks and shirts with sleeves.

Recommended guidebook: The Lonely Planet book on Egypt.

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