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Side dish

By CHRIS SHERMAN

© St. Petersburg Times, published May 31, 2001


TIP OF THE TOQUE

Top chef in this year's cook-off at Home Gourmet in Dunedin was Tyson Grant from O Bistro, new name of O'Gradney's (6661 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 381-1212). He bested Paul Kapsalis of Green Spring Cafe in Safety Harbor in the last round of 16 chefs in seven months of Iron Chef-style elimination. Final test: rack of lamb and chayote squash. Grant crusted the lamb with ginger, cooked chayote with honey and rum, made a plantain potato hash and added vanilla soy syrup.

NEW IN TOWN

B.T. Nguyen, the name and style behind Cafe B.T., Tampa's Eurasian pioneer, is working on a new spot in SoHo. Yellow Door (311 S Howard, Tampa) will specialize in tapas and small dishes and late night hours. Food will come from a wide range of Southeast Asia, including Cambodia and Laos as well as regions of her native Vietnam. Opening by midsummer.

NEW RECIPE

Dwight and Lauren Otis, wizards of Next City Grille and Antipasto's, move into the kitchen at J. Ryan's on the Grill (717 S Howard Ave.; (813) 250-1661) to shake up the SoHo bistro. Antipasto's space will house Lauren's Ravioli Co.

I'LL HAVE ANOTHER . . .

Real taco. They can have all manner of chicken, pork, beef or beans, and garnish that includes fresh cilantro and a squeeze of lime. I find them from Clearwater to Wimauma, in taquerias and groceries such as Mexico Lindo (812 Court St, Clearwater; 443-5892). Tacos cost only $1.25 and come in 8 flavors there; $3.75 burritos will feed two. On weekends you can get lamb tacos and menudo too.

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