By JEFF MILLER

© St. Petersburg Times, published June 4, 2000

Editor's Note: Freelance writer Jeff Miller has traveled to Australia regularly the past 10 years and is currently spending several months there. Here is his suggested itinerary for the first-time visitor who plans a two-week trip.

[Photo courtesy of Quicksilver Connections] The Quicksilver, which can carry 325 passengers, ties up to a platform anchored on Agincourt Reef, part of the Great Barrier Reef.

You have two weeks' vacation and you want to see Australia. Can you do it?

It depends on how much you really want to see. Australia covers about 2.97-million square miles -- the United States is 3.54-million square miles, and you wouldn't consider trying to cover all the U.S. in two weeks. But you can get a good taste of Australia in that time.

Most first-time visitors are advised to take the well-traveled triangle of Sydney-The Red Center-Cairns. While it is definitely a cliched tourist track, it is nevertheless still an excellent primer -- giving visitors a good sampling of Australia's urban, Outback, and ocean experiences.

So here are "Publicized, and worth it," "Lesser-known worthies," and "The quirky." Also included are: "Important Facts to Remember," and "A Few Ideas for Repeat Visitors."

Sydney

This is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Draped over numerous picturesque bays, quiet inlets and secluded coves, Sydney is a walkable city also well-served by abundant taxis, a good network of buses, trains and ferries, and various transportation passes.

Skip it: Bondi Beach, an over-promoted and over-rated beach that is easily surpassed by nearby -- and easier to reach -- Manly Beach (see below).

Publicized, worth it: For shopping, the elegant, 1890s-era, Queen Victoria Building (known to locals as the QVB) in the heart of Sydney is a city block in size and is filled with three levels of upscale shops, boutiques and cafes. Options: The Rocks Market (on weekends) in the oldest part of the city, and the Paddington Market (Saturdays) in an inner city suburb, are worthwhile outdoor markets with plenty of local craft stalls.

Harbor Ferries at Circular Quay. There are numerous and varied ferry tours that offer commentary on the extensive harbor. For a more "locals" experience, take the ferry from the Quay to Manly, a seaside resort on the North Head of the harbor's entrance. This ride gives passengers a true sense of the harbor's size and beauty. Take the traditional slower ferry (where you can get out on deck) one way, and the faster Jet Cat (all interior seats) the other way. Manly has good beaches, shopping and restaurants.

The Opera House. This magnificent structure is so photogenic it has no bad side. For inside views there are guided tours, or take in a show -- last-minute tickets are often available.

Lesser-known worthies: The Pylon Bridge Museum. A small door in the southeast pylon of Sydney Harbor Bridge leads to an interesting museum. Atop the pylon is an observation deck with stellar views of the city, harbor and Opera House. For the fearless, there's a walk over the bridge superstructure.

"Wilderness" trails in the City. Sydney Harbor National Park is a conglomerate of harborside parcels of land, many of which have trails -- everything from urban promenades to wilderness paths. Ask for recommendations from a ranger at the visitors' center in Cadman's Cottage at the Rocks.

The quirky: Aboriginal tours. In a city little known for aboriginal experiences, Sydney Aboriginal Discoveries offers harbor cruises, half- and full-day land tours, and even a one-night camping trip that help visitors see the city through the eyes of Australia's indigenous people. Web site is http://easy.com.au/stone/abtours. Lord Nelson's Pub. Located near the Rocks and Sydney Harbor Bridge, this classic Australian pub is, reportedly, the city's oldest and is usually filled with young office workers and local artists.

Quarantine Station "Ghost" Tour. A chilling evening tour of the old Quarantine Station, which sits on the tip of North Head near Manly.

The Red Center

Situated in almost the geographic center of the continent, and set within a fiery desert of red soil beneath cobalt blue skies, the Red Center is a term that loosely encompasses the small town of Alice Springs and the giant monolith, Ayers Rock (known now by the Aboriginal name Uluru), which is 280 miles southwest of Alice.

Most international visitors come and go from the Red Center via airplane (airports at Alice and Uluru), although a famous alternative is the two-day Ghan train, which runs between Alice and Adelaide. Getting around the Red Center can be done either by self-drive or with established tours.

Publicized, and worth it: Alice Springs's Telegraph Station. The original telegraph station, on a hill overlooking the current town, is where the town first began. Today, it is a beautiful spot of restored pioneer buildings and large shade trees that are filled with rose and gray colored galahs (cockatoos). There are fascinating displays and photos of early settlement and Aboriginal history.

Uluru. The largest rock monolith in the world rises from the flat desert floor as starkly as a giant's headstone. Climbing to the top of the rock is the goal of many, but the Aboriginals consider Uluru a sacred site and ask that you do not climb. While most visitors still do climb, those who choose to walk around the rock instead find a greater visual and personal experience.

[Photo: Susan Burdick] The Anagu Aborigines, caretakers of Uluru — better known as Ayers Rock — ask visitors not to climb the rock they consider sacred. But as this ribbon of climbers shows, the request is seldom heeded.

The base of Uluru has been protected from development by the establishment of Ayers Rock Resort, an accommodation center a few miles from the rock that includes six properties ranging from a luxury hotel to a campground.

Lesser-known worthies: The Olgas. Only a few miles from Uluru, the Olgas, or Kata Tjuta, are a group of 36 giant rock domes that are as impressive as Uluru. A few good hiking trails wind their way around the huge mounds of stone.

Kings Canyon. Located on a dirt road four hours' drive from Alice Springs, this is a kind of mini-Grand Canyon. A great hiking trail (moderately difficult), climbs to the top of the canyon, then through a magical area called "Lost City," before skirting the sheer-faced rim.

The quirky: Ewaninga Rock Carvings. Twenty-five miles southeast of Alice Springs, the flat desert is broken by a ring of rock outcroppings looking like tired old giants hunched around a fire. Scattered among the outcroppings are well-preserved works of ancient artists. Abstract rather than narrative, the carvings included concentric circles, wavy lines and animal tracks.

Cairns

In the far northeastern region of Queensland is the tropical town of Cairns, the jumping-off point for experiencing Australia's wonderful surf-and-turf combo -- the 1,200 mile-long Great Barrier Reef, and the mainland's lush rain forest. Two important points to note: The reef is not right off shore -- it takes a couple of hours' boat ride to reach -- and Cairns does not have a beach (just tidal mudflats).

Publicized, and worth it: Great Barrier Reef, day trips. To reach the reef, you have a variety of choices, from huge, 325-passenger catamarans and 150-passenger sailboats, to 20-passenger snorkel and/or dive boats. Each choice has its pros and cons:

The largest vessels are crowded with international tourists but are well organized, comfortable, offer coral viewing for non-swimmers, and are best for those concerned about seasickness. The smaller vessels can be spartan in comfort and are more susceptible to wave action, but they offer a more intimate experience, usually with more Australians as both crew and passengers.

Great Barrier Reef, islands. Dangling between the mainland and the reef like a string of jade pearls are a handful of islands that offer everything from camping to five-star resorts. Each island has its own unique flavor and style (and corresponding price). Recommended: Dunk Island for families; Lizard and Bedarra for lavish (and expensive) pampering.

Rain forest. North of Cairns is Australia's largest virgin rain forest, in Daintree National Park and Cape Tribulation National Park. Numerous established tours run from Cairns and Port Douglas into the forest, or you can do some 4WD exploration along the dirt road that runs from north of Port Douglas all the way to Cooktown.

Triangle Day Trip. It starts with a ride on the charming 1880s Kuranda Train, which climbs through the jungle and up onto the Atherton Tablelands, before pulling into the small but bustling town of Kuranda. Here there are numerous shops and a huge open-air market seven days a week.

The return trip can be by bus, train or aboard the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway -- reportedly the world's longest gondola cableway -- which skims across the rain forest canopy. At the end of the Skyrail is the impressive Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, home to probably Australia's finest Aboriginal dance troupe and interpretative center.

Lesser-known worthies: Port Douglas. Only 44 miles north of Cairns, this fishing village has turned into a haven for international tourists because of its scenic beauty, white sand beaches, full-service resorts, and gaggle of snorkel/dive boats.

Green Island. Because Cairns has no beach, and Green Island is just a short ferry ride away, it has become the day-trip mecca for beach lovers. The island has a shopping and food area -- and a luxury resort for those who want to spend a few nights.

The quirky: Undara Lava Tubes. A fascinating three-day tour (run by Undara Experience) leaves from Cairns and includes hiking into giant lava tubes, a stay in a 54-resident Outback town, a ride on a two-car train, and an overnight in restored train carriages permanently nestled in a grove of gum trees.

If you go

[Times art: Teresanne Cossetta]

Getting there: United Airlines, New Zealand Air and QANTAS fly direct to Sydney from America's west coast. The nonstop flight is typically 13 1/2 hours, which convinces many people to spend a couple of days in Hawaii, going to and from Australia.

Getting around: You will use two days flying internationally, and one day within Australia traveling to Cairns and the Red Center.

Getting acquainted: The seasons are reversed: Australia's winter is America's summer. The exchange rate is definitely in Americans' favor: A U.S. dollar will get about $1.82 Australian.

For repeat visitors: Melbourne, Australia's other great city, has a distinctively European feel, with elegant stone buildings, wide, leafy boulevards, a broad, lazy river, and picturesque trams.

The Indian-Pacific train is an epic, three-night, Sydney-Perth, continent-crossing journey that's worth it for the scenery and for the number of Aussies on aboard.

The Great Ocean Road southwest of Melbourne rivals California's Route 1 for scenic beauty.

Among the islands beyond the Great Barrier Reef worth visiting are: Kangaroo Island, south of Adelaide, for wildlife; Lord Howe Island, east of Sydney, for scenic beauty and and good snorkeling; and Norfolk Island, east of Lord Howe, for scenery, laid-back charm and historic interest.

For more Information: For a free Australian vacation-planning kit, call (800) 369-6863, or try the Web site, http://www.Australia.com. For more information on Sydney, check http://www.tourism.nsw.gov.au/tnsw. For the Red Center, http://www.nttc.com.au. For Cairns, http://www.destinationqueensland.com.

-- Jeff Miller is a freelance writer whose full-time home is in Denver.

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