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Waterfall country, N.C.
By JIM KERR © St. Petersburg Times, published June 10, 2001
About 100 years ago, grist mill operators found unlimited hydraulic energy here, but today the attraction is the flowing water itself. Visitors to the rugged remains of America's oldest mountains come to savor the cascades. The sound of the rushing water can be rhapsodic and soothing; Cherokee Indians who hunted these woods two centuries ago attached legends to them. Today, from May through October, U.S. 64 is an artery for nature lovers and tourists browsing the parks, heritage sites, roadside stands, adventure outfitters and gem mining operations. At Whitewater Falls, 11 miles south of the town of Cashiers, we park our car to join dozens following a paved path to a well-constructed wooden stairway along a mountainside. The first overlook is spectacular: a plunge of 411 feet, said to be the largest vertical drop of any waterfall in the eastern United States. For most observers, this is close enough. But we climb down a steep and twisting path to the base, an arduous but rewarding viewpoint hundreds of feet below. Here, a rock slab provides a natural observation point and a chance to cool off in the water.
The initial 1,000-foot walk to the platform overlook was a cakewalk, but I'm gasping hard from the ascent back from the base. The steep and slippery path is part of the Foothills Trail, which crisscrosses these mountains along with the Bartram and Appalachian trails. I learn again that waterfall hunting in this region can be as tough as any muscle-flexing outdoor sport, or as easy as pulling your car off the road. Waterfall country includes three counties and a handful of small resort towns, including Brevard, Rosman, Lake Toxaway, Sapphire, Cashiers, Highlands and Franklin. Cashiers, roughly midway along this scenic stretch, is about 150 miles north of Atlanta. The Pisgah National Forest encompasses the region between Brevard and Lake Toxaway. The southernmost dip of the Blue Ridge Parkway lies only 20 miles north of U.S. 64, up State Road 215. Armed with maps and guidebooks, it is possible to cover dozens of waterfalls in a long weekend, branching off from U.S. 64 across the rolling, forested terrain. But from a practical standpoint, a less hurried pace is best, concentrating on one of three main regions. Waterfalls proliferate in all of them, with a wide array of attractions and accommodations in each. Traveling from east to west, there are three main sections for consideration and waterfall exploration: Brevard to Sapphire: More than 100 major waterfalls plunge over the landscape, mainly on the north and west forks of the French Broad River, one of North Carolina's longest and widest. Most of the territory is public domain, covering more than 150,000 acres of the Pisgah National Forest. Some falls are tucked into private property and require permission for a visit, but the majority are open to the public. There are easily accessible photo ops such as Looking Glass Falls, a 60-foot cascade alongside U.S. 276, and less-visited Cathey's Creek Falls in a wilderness area off SR 1401. But take care at every waterfall: The melodic sound and serene setting can be a deadly siren, especially at more remote locations where there are no barriers or artificial overlooks. Cathey's Creek Falls has a rewarding 100-foot cascade along a road less traveled, for example, but its banks are steep and slick. Nevertheless, a rugged hike can often be followed by a refreshing and safe dip in a stream or pool. Sliding Rock Falls, on U.S. 276, a popular summer setting for kids, even offers a natural 100-foot slide into a 6-foot-deep pool. Sapphire to Cashiers: Cashiers is one of the most developed crossroads in mountain tourism. In a valley about 3,500 feet above sea level, more than a dozen restaurants and small cafes, along with craft and souvenir shops, resort lodges, motels and B&Bs, are within a couple of miles of the town's only stoplight, at the intersection of U.S. 64 and SR 107. There are 20 waterfalls in the area, most of them south of town in the Nantahala National Forest, a heavily wooded wilderness cut in this region by three fast-moving rivers: the Whitewater, Thompson and Horsepasture. The woodlands include tall hemlocks, American elms, black gums, birches, dogwoods, firs, hickories, hollies, magnolias and more. The area is home to more than 120 species of birds. In the spring, rhododendrons, mountain laurels and azaleas add flaming red and pink to a backdrop of green shrubs. In fall, brilliant colors frame magnificent Whitewater Falls and the smaller Laurel Falls, which is a strenuous downhill trek to view. Cashiers to Highlands and Franklin: There are few turnoffs, other than private drives and country clubs, for 10 scenic miles between Cashiers and the upscale mountain town of Highlands. Galleries, custom craft and antiques shops, high-end clothing and gift boutiques signal the high level of affluence here, with a number of excellent small hotels and historic B&Bs. Franklin, 11 miles farther along U.S. 64 as it cuts north through the Cullasaja Gorge, is a quaint county seat. It was gemstone mining that first brought settlers here more than a century ago, and visitors still come to muck about in old mines for rubies, sapphires and garnets. Craft shows and fairs are popular in warmer months, and Victorian B&Bs typically offer reasonable rates. The winding link between the two towns may be a hassle for Highlands residents visiting Franklin food markets, but the drive is one of the most beautiful in the Smokies. The Cullasaja River is a picture-perfect spinoff of the Little Tennessee River as it digs its way down the gorge, leaving behind one waterfall and cascade after another. Trout fishermen try their luck in swift waters between the rapids, but most people stop just for the view and to take photos. With slow-speed color slide or print film and a steady hand or tripod, anyone can get professional results. You can still park your car behind Bridal Veil Falls on the old roadbed of U.S. 64, or march down the steps and stay dry (well, you might get a little damp) while hiding behind Dry Falls, where a railing is the only thing between you, the torrent of falling water and the rocks below. Several turnouts also offer views and photographs of Cullasaja Falls and its rocky cascades. If getting away from it all with a challenging hike is your fancy, try Glen Falls, southwest of Highlands off SR 106 and County Road 1618. A mile-long trail drops 700 vertical feet along three rugged cascades that beckon those in really good shape. Pacing yourself is crucial in this country. A day of waterfall hunting and hiking can be tiring, but when you pull off the "Waterfall Highway" in the evening, the rock music orchestrating your dreams won't be the kind you hear on the radio. Jim Kerr is a freelance writer who lives in Raleigh. If you goFood and accommodations along U.S. 64 are as varied and prolific as the waterfalls. Roadside stands sell fresh fruit and snacks, Southern barbecue comes in huge portions, and both gourmet fare and down-home cooking are found at resorts and in-town restaurants. Among the choice accommodations: Brevard: The Greystone Inn is the most luxurious resort in the region, with a price to match. You will need a reservation far in advance of high seasons at this restored 1915 Lake Toxaway resort. It offers 19 guest rooms in the inn and 12 luxury lakefront rooms. Rates start around $300 a night but include breakfast, dinner, golf, tennis and many other amenities. Greystone Lane, Lake Toxaway, N.C. 28747; toll-free 1-800-824-5766; Web site, www.greystoneinn.com. Cashiers: High Hampton Inn & Country Club is mountain rustic. The place is a family setting on a lake with a golf course. Men will need a coat and tie at dinner. Rates start about $90 per person, including three meals a day. Try the buffet breakfast here even if you don't spend the night. P.O. Box 338, Cashiers, NC 28717-0338; toll-free 1-800-334-2551; www.highhamptoninn.com. For a full listing of area accommodations, call the Cashiers Chamber of Commerce, (828) 743-5191; the Web site is www.cashiers-nc.com. Highlands: The Main Street Inn is an 1885 farmhouse-style inn restored in 1998. Everything is within easy walking distance of this 20-room inn, where breakfast is served in a dining room with a large stone fireplace. Room rates range from $95 to $145 a night, including breakfast. 270 Main St., Highlands, NC 28741; toll-free 1-800-213-9142; www.mainstreet-inn.com. Franklin: There are numerous reasonably priced and charming B&Bs in this historic mountain town. Among them:
For a full listing, call the Franklin Area Chamber of Commerce toll-free at 1-866-372-5546; Web site, www.franklin-chamber.com.
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