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Testaments to time and art

The ancient churches of Cyprus offer a lesson in art history and in the endurance of faith.

By SHARON FEISSEL

© St. Petersburg Times, published July 16, 2000

Tiny stone churches, their interiors completely covered with frescoes, nestle in valleys and upon slopes of the Troodos mountains in southern Cyprus.

Mountain churches were built with rural frugality and practicality. Roofs were steep-pitched to quickly discard snow and tile-covered to forestall decay. Surprisingly small, they were meant for individual humility before God.

These rustic structures enclose religious art developed by the Greek Orthodox Church during the Byzantine Empire, the eastern half of the Roman Empire. Strictly speaking, such frescoes were neither art nor decoration, but education in tabloid form:

Christianity's great challenge was luring illiterate populations from larger-than-life Greek and Roman gods. The church met this challenge with pictures that illiterate people could "read" themselves. With frescoes completely covering walls and ceiling, worshipers were surrounded by the mightiest figures of Orthodox Christianity.

Of 60 historic churches, nine (as a unit) were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, thus recognizing Cypriot churches as a component of the .world's art treasures. Having survived earthquakes, neglect and time, all are interesting to art historians. Not all are favorite tourist destinations. Here is a look at some of the churches.

Asinou and Kakopetria

Cyprus still belonged to the Byzantines when Agios (Saint) Nikolaos was built in Kakopetria in 1025 and Our Lady of the Pastures (Panagia Forviotissa) was built at Asinou in 1105-1106. These churches exemplify the style and content dictated by Constantinople, center of the empire and the church. Artists were trained in Constantinople or at least worked from copy books produced there.

Invariably, Christ is painted in the dome. Mary's place of honor is the apse. Scenes along upper walls depict the lives of Jesus and Mary. Lower panels relate to prelates, martyrs and saints.

Figures are elongated and austere, with large eyes, small mouths, long noses and a distinctive V-shape between the eyebrows. Figure size is determined by importance, not nearness. In highly stylized landscapes, distances are flat, with no sense of perspective. When minimally refurbished, color intensity is amazing.

In Pedoulas

French crusaders took Cyprus in 1192 and ruled for 300 years, cutting off Byzantine influence. In 1453, the Byzantine Empire itself disintegrated when the Ottomans took Constantinople.

Archangel Michael in Pedoulas was built 21 years later, in 1474. Yet it reflects late Byzantine style, which arrived through the influence of Helen Palaeologos, Byzantine princess and briefly queen of Cyprus. This delightful chapel has several interesting features, including Crusader coats of arms.

Colors are brighter. Frescoes show greater detail, better draping of painted fabrics and highlights on clothing and faces -- in general, lighter, softer, more classical Greek. Buildings are more realistic. Yet stylized landscapes and a lack of true perspective remain. Christ's baptism is especially charming. Jesus stands in the Jordan River, which looks rather like a beach towel.

The monastery in Kalopanagiotis

Agios Ioannis Lampadistis monastery in Kalopanagiotis is particularly interesting, with three one-room churches under a single roof. The center church, destroyed by fire, is flanked by two dramatically contrasting styles.

Entering Agios Herakleidios, you are face to face with prelates, saints and martyrs of the old style: linear figures, flat faces staring outward, severe and ascetic expressions, rigid bodies, formalized gestures.

Opposite is the Latin Chapel built about 1500, not only after the Byzantine Empire fell but also after Venetians took Cyprus in 1489.

Western art had been influenced by superior Byzantine skills since the 1200s. Thus, 300 years later, Byzantine art returned after being recast by Italian masters.

Italian colors and perspectives in Latin Chapel frescoes contrast wonderfully with the austerity and flatness of Agios Herakleidios. Renaissance faces express emotion. Backgrounds provide perspective. Scenes are elaborate and dynamic, more Western.

In modern churches, Western elements have been discarded and frescoes again reflect their purer Byzantine roots.

Freelance writer Sharon Feissel is a former resident of Cyprus.

If you go

GETTING THERE: Cyprus is easily reached through London, Amsterdam, Brussels, Frankfurt, Paris, Zurich, Rome and other European cities on the various national airlines or by connection at those points with Cyprus Airways. Travel can be booked through Cyprus Airways at (718) 267-6882. Air time from New York to Cyprus is 11 hours.

GETTING AROUND: Cyprus is a divided island. No visa is needed for entry into the Republic of Cyprus. However, you may not enter if your passport has a stamp from the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Anyone entering Cyprus through the northern part of the island may not pass through to the southern part. Visitors to the Republic of Cyprus are required to return to the southern side by 5 p.m. Crossing is only through the checkpoint in Nicosia.

Cyprus is a modern country, with excellent international communications. Credit cards are accepted. There are no food or water problems. However, there are few adjustments for the disabled and few smoke-free areas. English is widely spoken.

Cyprus has sun most of the year. Rainy season, usually with sporadic showers, runs roughly December through April. Summer is hot, with temperatures in the 90s. Late spring and fall are excellent times to visit.

GETTING TO THE MOUNTAIN CHURCHES: The Troodos mountains are easily reached from either Limassol or Nicosia. Cyprus Tourist Organization has a good tourist road map. Mark the route, then watch for signs. The less-isolated UNESCO churches are generally open. If not, the key is available nearby. Ask around.

CAR RENTAL AND DRIVING: Car rental costs about $22 for a small car to $43 for a medium-size car per day. In addition to local companies, Alamo, Auto-Europe, Avis, Budget, Hertz and Thrifty have franchises in Cyprus. No international driver's license is needed. Cypriots drive on the left side of the road.

STAYING THERE: Because individually booked rooms are pricey, your best bet for moderating the cost is through a package. Check with your travel agent or Cyprus Tourist Organization (see below).

Hotels in Cyprus are rated according to European standards (to five stars). Seasonal discounts are often available Nov. 15 through March 15, excluding Christmas/New Year's.

In midtown Nicosia (Lefkosia): The five-star hotel is the Cyprus Hilton, double $244-$310, no discount. Call 011-3572-377777; fax: 011-3572-377788; e-mail: hiltoncy@spidernet.com.cy.

Four-star hotels are the Holiday Inn, double $141-$186, no discount. Call 011-3572-475131; fax 011-2572-473337; and the Forum Nicosia by Intercontinental, double $213-$265. Outside town center, but nice. Call 011-3572-356666; fax: 011-3572-351918; e-mail: nicosia@interconti.com.

In Limassol (Lemesos) along the sea 31/2 to 7 miles east of town: Five-star hotels include:

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Four-stars include:

  • Atlantica Bay, double $113-$131, seasonal discount 35 percent. Tel: 011-3575-634070; fax: 011-3575-634171.

  • Mediterranean Beach, double $127-$144, seasonal discount 30 percent. Tel: 011-3575-311777; fax: 011-3575-324754.

The three-stars include:

To stay in traditional houses, check with Cyprus Tourist Organization (contact information below) about accommodations in traditional villages, including Omodhos, Kakopetria and Kalopanagiotis.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Cyprus Tourist Organization in Cyprus has offices in major towns, providing information, maps and brochures. Be sure to identify the Greek name for your destinations and the villages en route: Nicosia/Lefkosia, Limassol/Lemesos, etc.

Cyprus Tourism Organization in New York provides information for the United States and Canada. Various brochures are available; however, they do not book tour packages or make reservations. Contact: 13 E 40th St., New York, NY 10016. Phone: (212) 683-5280; fax: (212) 683-5282; e-mail: gocyprus@aol.com; Web site: http://www.cyprustourism.org.

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OTHER WEB SITES: http://www.cosmosnet.net and http://www.cyprusnet.net. The country's official homepage: http://www.kypros.org/government.

GUIDEBOOKS INCLUDE: Rough Guide, Blue Guide and Edition Erde Travel Guide books on Cyprus. Lonely Planet has a new guide released this year.

Those touring Cyprus extensively should pick up in Cyprus Byzantine and Medieval Cyprus, A Guide to the Monuments, by Gwynneth de Parthog, Interworld Publications. About $12.

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