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The steak lives up to the promise of the aroma from DurangoBy WILMA NORTON © St. Petersburg Times, published July 20, 2000 We've been inhaling the great oak-fire aroma from Durango for years as we drive by on Fourth Street N but had never eaten there, so, on a recent Sunday evening when our gas grill was out of propane, we decided to let Durango do the grilling for us. We debated some of the non-steak offerings, such as the mountain trout ($12.49), before deciding to stick with red meat. The steaks, which include strip, filet, sirloin, prime rib and porterhouse, range from $9.99 to $18.99. My husband ordered the steak and shrimp feast ($14.79), which came with an 8-ounce sirloin and four bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp. The sirloin, ordered medium well-done, had a pleasant but not overpowering smoke flavor. It often seems impossible to get a steak cooked as ordered, but the sirloin was cooked to what we considered medium well-done. The shrimp, grilled on a skewer, were basted with a sweet sauce. The accompanying Mexican rice was bland and tasted like a packaged mix. Next time, we will order the baked potato. Our meals came with a warm loaf of swirled wheat and pumpernickel, and we wished we had more. The kid's quesadilla ($2.99), which came with fries, was a hit with our 7-year-old. It was nice to see something other than a hamburger or chicken nuggets on a kids menu, even if it was just a variation of grilled cheese. She liked the toasted tortillas with melted cheese inside but would have liked sour cream or guacamole to dip the pieces in. I wasn't hungry enough for a steak and potato dinner, so the steak salad ($7.49) turned out to be a good choice. The salad fixings were standard: crisp lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes and onions. The steak was thinly sliced sirloin cooked fairly rare, which is exactly the way I like it. Except for one gristly bite, it was tender. As to the type of dressing to get with the salad, the woman who took my order said she preferred the ranch dressing, but her manager voted for the bleu cheese. She cheered when I opted for her choice. Unfortunately, when our boxes were packed, the dressing was not included. Luckily, there was ranch dressing in the refrigerator at home. Takeout orders are picked up at the bar. Ours arrived from the kitchen the moment I walked up, 15 minutes after placing the order. I had told the person who took the order that I had a coupon for a free kid's meal, but the bill had the $2.99 charge added on. The bartender cheerfully subtracted the amount. Do you have a favorite takeout restaurant? Is so, tell us the name, and we may feature it in Pinellas to Go. Mail your nominations to Pinellas to Go, Taste Section, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731, or e-mail to floridian@sptimes.com. Durango Steak House3901 Fourth St. N, St. Petersburg Phone: (727) 823-2411 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday through Saturday; noon to 9 p.m. Sunday Consumers: Two adults and one child What we got: Kids quesadilla meal, steak salad, and steak and shrimp feast combo What it cost: $23.84 with coupon for free kid's meal Pay with: Cash, major credit cards Time it took: 15 minutes
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