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Side Dish

By Times staff writer

© St. Petersburg Times,
published August 23, 2001


New in town

The baking revolution continues to rise:

Pinellas Park now has a new-school baker creating naturally fermented Old World breads at Bread Artisans (4442 Park Blvd.; (727) 548-1400).

The new French Croissant (519 Cleveland St., Clearwater; (727) 446-7883) is run by Corsicans Gerard and Carole Andreani. Her culinary roots go back to Grandmere's Auberge de la Source in the south of France.

Besides the namesake, it sells tarts, foccaccia and fougasse, the savory flatbread of Provence.

Changing recipe

Johnny Nadeau is back in Rubin ICOT Center, this time in a space reinvented as Phatz (13505 ICOT Blvd., Clearwater). It has MTV colors and a multichannel buffet: soup and salad bar, top-it-yourself five-minute pizza, pastas and carved meats, plus his garlic bread. It's $6.99 for the office lunch crowd and $9.99 at dinner.

No changes at his first place, Johnny's Italian Restaurant (2907 State Road 590, Clearwater; (727) 797-2940), a local fave now 21 years old.

Correction

The newly opened Tampa Brickyard restaurant at Oak Ramble Plaza in New Tampa serves pasta, steaks and seafood. It does not serve pizza.

I'll have another . .

serving of oxtail. Cooks around the world know this inexpensive and maligned cut is probably the richest meat on the cow. You'll see it in Spanish and Caribbean soups and stews, braised in Italian dishes, in stock and over rice in Vietnamese restaurants, just for starters. The English, French and Germans like it too. No cause to be squeamish. You'll agree this is a delicacy.

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