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By CHRIS SHERMAN
© St. Petersburg Times, published August 23, 2001
Grand Finale
Holy truffle oil, Batman! We're in the darkest shadows of downtown Gotham City, but no evildoers lurk here, just plenty of artists, hipsters, high-end diners and pool shooters.
Although the horizons between the shade off Tropicana Field and BayWalk are bleak and barren of nightlife, Grand Finale was going strong on its third birthday with exceptional strength in its food.
Although dedicated owner Brian Wellman gave the odd location a flashy retro look, diligent staff, sharp art selection and late-night dining from the start, early menus were uninspired. No longer. Current chef John Shields has added contemporary food with style to match.
His imaginative pairings of traditions and preparations, like roast halibut in lamb broth with chick peas or big scallops with a passion fruit sorbet, sizzle with flavor that goes beyond shock value.
An occasional stunt doesn't work, like a "grilled cheese" with foie gras on rye bread. More often the surprise is in heartiness and simple tastes like serving seared tuna with homey mashed parsnips and fava beans green and fresh from the pod, or adding a touch of sweet peas to a velvety corn bisque. A small pannacotta shows how simple and light desserts can be.
Overall the menu is an eclectic sampler of New American with a few show-off exotics, but it's heading away from mere trendy to simpler, with an accent on fish, good vegetables and lively Asian spices.
Service is as sophisticated as anywhere in the area but utterly without attitude, a rare pleasure. Wine list is short but surprisingly varied.
It's all found a large and appreciative audience that can pack this unlikely spot past midnight, with little thanks to baseball. But in time, Grand Finale's fortune may rub off on the Devil Rays.
Grand Finale, 1101 First Ave. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 823-9921. Dinner entree prices range from $14 to $24.