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Build a better burger
By JANET K. KEELER © St. Petersburg Times,
Some folks like their burgers plain with no adornment but bun; others want them pumped up with blue cheese and grilled onions, guacamole and salsa, or bacon and Swiss cheese. Even the meat, or lack of it in the case of veggie burgers, is a point of discussion. Beef or turkey? Lean or not-so-lean? Grilled or fried? Quarter-pounder or more? There is no disputing, though, the popularity of the hamburger. Americans gobble 38-billion burgers every year, an average of about 21/2 a week per person. (The half must be parents finishing up uneaten food from their kids' plates or fast-food sacks.) Labor Day, which is Monday, is prime time for burger bingeing because it's a big cookout holiday. In some parts of the country, Labor Day is the final hurrah of summer, heralding cooler nights, turning leaves and, eventually, snow. In Florida, cool weather is months away, and we never put away our grills, anyway. We've got practically 365 days each year to perfect our grilled burgers. It's not difficult to make a flavorful, juicy burger on the grill. Ground meat, some salt and pepper and high heat do it. Even overcooked, but not burned, burgers are forgiven by ripe tomato slices, distinctive dill pickles and crunchy lettuce leaves. If you're feeding a gang for Labor Day, consider grilling hamburgers. They are economical (about four bucks worth of ground chuck provides eight quarter-pound burgers), and the grilling makes cleanup minimal. (For those who don't like burgers, toss some hot dogs or veggies on the barbie.) To beef connoisseurs, nothing but ground chuck will do for hamburgers. Chuck, which comes from the shoulder area of the animal, is a fatter, tougher, cheaper and flavorful cut of meat. Pot and chuck roasts, which come from the shoulder, normally require longer cooking times to make them tender. However, ground chuck is tenderized in the grinder, leaving the flavor but breaking down the substances that make meat chewy. Randy Colbeck, a meat cutter at George's Meat Market in St. Petersburg, wouldn't use anything but ground chuck for his burgers. He likes his patties with granulated garlic and pepper. No salt at all, he says. And none of the eggs, bread crumbs, garlic, Worcestershire sauce and spices that so many recipes call for. He wants to taste the beef. "When you add all that stuff," he says, "you taste everything else but the flavor of the chuck. It's the same as putting A.1. sauce on a filet mignon." While Colbeck proclaims his affinity for ground chuck burgers, he understands that the more expensive, leaner ground round is desirable to people with high cholesterol or those watching their weight. Ground round and sirloin, another favorite among weight watchers, come from the hindquarters of the cow. It's about 5 percent fat compared with chuck, which is about 20 percent. It's a misconception, Colbeck says, that ground sirloin or round is superior to ground chuck for hamburgers because they are more tender cuts of meat. For ground meat, the tenderness of the cut doesn't matter, Colbeck says. The grinder takes care of that. The fat content, however, has everything to do with flavor. Fat is what flavors meat. Without it, or with reduced amounts of it, you'll need to give burgers a lift. You may want to mix the beef with ingredients similar to meatloaf such as eggs, bread crumbs, minced onion and garlic. Eggs, of course, would add back some fat. We tested Colbeck's theory, making burgers from ground chuck, leaner ground round and still leaner ground turkey. Though each made a tasty burger, the differences were striking. Colbeck was right. The best was ground chuck. Some of the fat cooked out in the grilling, but some remained, ensuring a juicy burger that almost tasted like steak. We grilled ours to medium. The leaner beef and turkey burgers were drier and the flavor more subtle. Both would be enlivened by condiments, the more intensely flavored the better. Each burger was formed quickly (best not to handle the meat a lot) and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Colbeck warned that the lower-fat meat would fall apart on the grill and suggested coating the grate with Pam or another non-stick vegetable spray. We did, and the burgers held together fine. Other tips for getting the best burger for your buck: Look for meat that has been freshly ground. George's grinds its daily, and most busy supermarkets have high turnover of inventory, so you're usually assured fresh meat. Select meat that is bright pink if you are buying it already thawed. Ground beef can be especially susceptible to bacterial contamination, such as salmonella, so it needs to be cooked to an internal temperature of 160 degrees. Invest in a barbecue fork with a thermometer built in or an instant-read meat thermometer. At 160 degrees, the meat should be slightly pink in the middle, in cooking terms medium well. When forming your patties, remember that they will shrink in diameter and increase in height during cooking. If you want them to fit a regular size hamburger bun, try to make them about the same width and quite flat. Burgers cook quickly on the grill. Once the grill is hot, place the burgers on the grate and leave the cover off. Four-ounce burgers will be cooked to medium in 11 to 13 minutes; flip them a couple of times during grilling to prevent charring. Six-ounce burgers take 13 to 15 minutes. Never press the burgers with a spatula to hasten cooking or flatten. This forces out juices and dries the meat. Test these tips at your Labor Day party and the debate will be over. You'll be the block's undisputed burgermeister. Grilled Hamburgers
Toppings:
Preheat the grill to high. Divide the meat into 6 equal portions. Lightly wet your hands with cold water, then form each portion of meat into a round patty 4 inches across and of even thickness. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Brush one side of the patties and the onion slices (if using) lightly with melted butter and season with more salt and pepper; place on grill. Turn with a spatula and continue grilling until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 5-6 minutes for medium. Brush the cut sides of the buns with the remaining melted butter and place, cut sides down, on the grill the last 2 minutes. Set out the toppings. Place the burgers and onion slices on the buns and serve.Makes 6 servings. Source: "The Barbecue Bible" by Steven Raichlen (Workman Publishing, 1998, $18.95). Grilled Mustard-Dill Burgers
Prepare grill (medium-high heat). Mix first 3 ingredients in medium bowl. Transfer 3 tablespoons sauce to small bowl and reserve. Add meat to remaining sauce in medium bowl and mix gently. Divide meat mixture into 2 equal portions. Flatten each to 1/2-inch-thick patty; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill cut side of buns until toasted, about 1 minute. Grill patties to desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium. Spread bottom half of buns with reserved sauce. Top each with burger, tomato slice, lettuce and bun top. Serves 2; can be doubled. Source: Bon Appetit, August 1999. Grilled Burgers With Roquefort Mayonnaise and Barbecued Red Onions
Prepare barbecue (medium heat). Brush onions generously with barbecue sauce. Grill until onions are tender, brown and glazed, basting with barbecue sauce and turning occasionally, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle patties with salt and pepper. Grill patties until cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Grill hamburger buns, cut side down, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Place patties on bottom halves of buns. Top each with 1 onion slice, Roquefort Mayonnaise, then bun tops. Serves 8. Source: Bon Appetit, July 1998. Roquefort Mayonnaise
Stir all ingredients in bowl to blend. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Bring to room temperature before using.) Makes about 11/2 cups. Source: Bon Appetit, July 1998. Green Valley Burgers
Combine ground beef, beer, egg, salt and pepper and form into 8 patties 1/4- to 3/8-inch thick. Heat olive oil in a skillet over low heat, stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, until light brown, being careful not to let it burn. Add garlic and green chilies and continue to cook until heated through; again, do not burn. Divide mixture among 4 patties and spread to about 1/2 inch from edge. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons Jack cheese on top of mixture. Top with another patty and seal the edges tightly. Grill to desired doneness and serve on sesame seed buns. Serves 4. Source: www.about.com.
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