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First Bite
By Times staff writer
© St. Petersburg Times,
published August 30, 2001
Quite the catch
[Times photo: Krystal Kinnunen]
Baked scallops on the half shell with dynamite sauce, front; South African lobster tail with seasoned rice and asparagus, left; and grilled Chilean sea bass with seasoned rice and asparagus at Mystic Fish.
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Whatever inspired the name Mystic Fish, it was right about one thing. It's the kind of quality seafood restaurant rarely seen here: a broad array of fresh finfish, served with a world of sauces, modern sides and slick decor.
Mystic Fish was spawned by the gang behind Guppy's, E&E Stakeout (and, at one time, the Lobster Pot). This, however, is their most contemporary effort yet, down to the fennel poached salmon, the Medusa lamps and a long daily menu of fresh catches and whims.
They ranged from a classic bouillabaisse, with generous shellfish and saffron and properly garnished with rouille, to perfect amberjack, crusty yet moist, and lightly done crabcakes in smoky roast pepper sauce. Seasoning is light yet imaginative: the kitchen's not afraid to brush a steak with Argentine chimichurri, sauce mahi mahi with avocado or add olives to hognose snapper.
Trimmings showed well, too. Bermuda chowder was robust, bread crusty, and salad of grilled apples and blue cheese superb. The dessert menu feeds chocolate lust with an intense flourless cake and truffle ice cream, made in house with equal passion. Wine list is sharp and affordable; one-third of the bottles are under $25 and almost all are under $35. Only scallops in a Peruvian sauce were dull.
No quibbles about service or the fact that the tip was included in the bill: Our waiter was honest enough to point it out -- and good enough to merit a few dollars more.
Mystic Fish has landed in the spot that housed the Sea Grill (which has since moved to U.S. 19) and more than replaced it with just another upscale seafooder. A complete remake has opened and brightened the interior, and the cooking raises the standard for seafood in Pinellas.
Looks like the kind of catch we've wished for.
Mystic Fish, 3253 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor, (727) 771-1800. Dinner entrees, $12.50 to $17.95.
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