Tours without ties

[Photos: AP] A Roman statue from the First Century A.D. stands in front of the Reading Room inside the spectacular Great Court of the fabled British Museum.

By KARI K. RIDGE

© St. Petersburg Times,
published September 2, 2001

Small numbers, public transport, a knowledgeable guide and lots of free time prove that package tours don't have to be smothering.

LONDON -- After my husband and I had traveled by ourselves through Europe, we decided that for our next venture we wanted a tour group. We figured the advantages would be conservation of time through the experience of the organization. But we did not want to be smothered in togetherness with other tour participants, and we still wanted the freedom to do extra things on our own.

The guided Best of London tour offered by low-cost guru Rick Steves promised to strike that balance.

Steves hosts public television's Travels in Europe, is author of several no-nonsense, budget-conscious guides and for years has operated Europe Through the Back Door Tours.

Anyone familiar with his books and shows may have wondered how closely a tour would adhere to Steves' sometimes-quirky, always-frugal philosophy. The weeklong tour turned out to follow many of Steves' tips, such as touring London in the less crowded, cool-weather seasons.

While some members of our group had participated in previous guided tours, others had never traveled abroad nor been on group tours. Participants included married couples, single women, a mother and daughter and a single man. Ages, occupations and hometowns varied widely.

The members generally agreed that they liked the freedom of this tour. Mornings were packed with group activities such as visiting the British Museum, the Cabinet War Rooms and St. Paul's Cathedral.

One of London’s landmarks is St. Paul’s Cathedral, designed by the legendary Sir Christopher Wren. But the Steves tour group also visited little-known works by Wren.

But about 2 p.m. each day, we went our separate ways. Each afternoon Martin, our guide, told us what sights he planned to visit, and participants had the choice of tagging along or striking out on their own -- to attend plays, take naps, do laundry or visit places not included on the itinerary.

It was during these free afternoons that my husband and I spent a few sunny hours visiting the London Zoo and getting a great overview of the city on a three-hour, guided tour from the windy top level of a double-decker bus.

With a maximum of 20 participants, it was easy to get around and through places. We effortlessly made our way through sites such as Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London, while larger tour groups seemed to clog the flow.

Our small numbers also allowed Martin to devote time to individuals, whether giving insight into nearby wildlife or the inner workings of local government, or helping members make plans for travel after the tour ended.

The Steves tours do not use chartered buses. Instead, Best of London participants receive passes allowing unlimited use of public buses and subway trains (the Tube). Mastering the public transit system provided its own measure of satisfaction.

Taking buses and the Tube also showed us the "real" London, its everyday world and its many panhandlers. It even led Martin to provide a lesson on England's welfare system.

Several group members commented that they appreciated that the tour was not interrupted regularly for shopping, as is often the case on package trips. My husband and I found plenty of time for the famed department stores Harrods and Fortnum & Mason.

And on a venture to Greenwich, it was acceptable for one woman to head into a farmer's market rather than follow the group to a maritime museum.

But ultimately, the best value was in having a knowledgeable person show us the ideal place and time to visit attractions (or events, such as the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace), because it saved us time and aggravation. And our guide showed us so much more, from a quiet park hidden within the bustling financial district to off-the-beaten-path pubs and tiny chapels designed by the famed Sir Christopher Wren.

Using London’s public transportation, including the subways of the Underground, helped tour participants get a better feel for everyday life in the metropolis.

Less active travelers, who want to keep walking to a minimum, would probably be happier with a different tour company. Brochure descriptions of much walking and carrying your own luggage up several flights of stairs were to the point.

For instance, the three-star Lime Tree Hotel had small but clean bedrooms -- and staircases winding up four floors, no elevator. However, its location in Belgravia, near quaint shops and author Ian Fleming's former home, was a good trade-off.

We also enjoyed our narrated walk on our final night together, after dining at the historic George Inn. This was an opportunity to get a new perspective on the city that transforms after dark.

If you go

GETTING THERE: The tour price does not include air fare, which is substantially cheaper when the weeklong Best of London tours are offered: in January, March, October and November. At these times, crowds are smaller.

British Airways flies direct from Tampa International to London, and both BA and Virgin Atlantic fly direct from Orlando. Many U.S. carriers fly from Florida cities and make connections to London.

THE TOUR: With an agenda of at least three sites each day, plus lodging, tips, entrance fees, guide books, maps, a day trip to Stonehenge and more than half our meals included, we thought the weeklong tour was worth the $1,200 for each of us. Single travelers do not pay an extra supplement but can expect to board with other single travelers.

Bring rain gear and you should never have to cancel plans due to the weather.

It is wise to reserve your place early. If a trip for your preferred date is booked, ask to be placed on a waiting list.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visit the Web site www.ricksteves.com or call Europe Through the Back Door Tours at (425) 771-8303, ext. 217.

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