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Prepare to be pampered
© St. Petersburg Times, published October 22, 2000 DEAD SEA, Jordan -- Not so long ago, the Jordanian side of the Dead Sea was pretty darn dead. While thousands of tourists crowded the spas, restaurants and gift shops on the Israeli side, about all Jordan had to offer was a sorry-looking guest house and snack bar geared to the none-too-wealthy local population. All that has changed with the Movenpick Resort and Spa.
Named one of the world's best new resorts by Conde Nast Traveler, the Movenpick offers a come-hither blend of stunning scenery, lush landscaping, Arab hospitality and European-style amenities. All this in a climate that has been scientifically proven to make you look good and feel even better. Opened 23 months ago, the resort already has become popular with tour groups exploring Jordan's wealth of natural and artificial attractions. And it almost makes you wish you were a German psoriasis sufferer, since that country's government pays for folks with skin diseases to come loll in the sun and reap its beneficial effects. Jordan is often called "Arab Light" -- a place where first-time visitors to the Middle East can get a good taste of the region's exoticism without being totally overwhelmed. Accordingly, the Swiss-run Movenpick balances East and West in a way that makes you feel both comfortable and adventuresome. Step into the vast lobby, with its stone floors and Moorish chandeliers, and at first you'll think you are entering an Arab pasha's palace. More likely than not, men in flowing robes with folded-cloth kaffiyehs on their heads will be puffing on water pipes. But here is something you will rarely see in the conservative Muslim world -- women in halter tops and the shortest of shorts. In terms of dress, almost anything goes at the Movenpick, which first and foremost is a beach resort. And what a beach. Viewed through the lobby's expansive windows, the Dead Sea shimmers against a hazy backdrop of gray and mauve mountains. Imagine a huge lake in the middle of the Grand Canyon for a vision of this area's raw and primitive beauty. Paths lined with bougainvillea and hibiscus wind to the rocky shore, where the world's saltiest body of water offers a unique bathing experience. The Dead Sea is so salty it is impossible to sink; it is even hard to maneuver yourself into a position where your mouth and nose are anywhere near the water. Instead you find yourself in a semi-seated position, bobbing about like a cork. The water is soothing to arthritic joints and has a soft, oily quality that is not at all unpleasant. Scoop up some mineral-rich mud from the bottom and slather it over your body for a feeling of rejuvenation. The curative powers of the Dead Sea have been recognized since Biblical times, and the Movenpick takes full advantage of them. Among the resort's top draws is the Sanctuary Zara Dead Sea Spa, run by a well-known London company and billed as the largest, most advanced spa of its kind in the Middle East. Guests can get Dead Sea mud wraps and mineral baths, in addition to the usual array of facials, massages and other spa treatments. Located at the lowest spot on Earth (1,300 feet below sea level), the Movenpick is also a relatively safe place to simply soak up the sun. The atmosphere over the Dead Sea is so thick it filters out much of the harmful UVB rays. And it contains unusually high amounts of bromine, which has a relaxing, near-sedative effect. In short, the Movenpick was a welcome place to unwind after a two-week assignment in Iraq, which is beset by wrenching poverty and pollution. Although many guests prefer to stay in individual villas, designed to resemble homes in a traditional Middle Eastern village, I was happy with my spacious room in the resort's main building. It had a balcony that offered a terrific view of the Dead Sea, a gaudy sunset and, at night, the lights of Jerusalem and Jericho twinkling far off on the Israeli side.
The room did have a couple of minor irritants that were jarring to find in a five-star hotel. Instead of individually wrapped bars, soap was dispensed from a container mounted on the wall several feet above the bath tub. To reach it meant standing up in the slippery tub. And the storage rack for bath towels was so high I had to drag a chair into the bathroom to get to it. Although part of the Movenpick's appeal is its relative remoteness, it would not hurt to have a few newspapers for those of us who don't like to be cut off from the rest of the world. Although the gift shop was well stocked with spa products, travel books and handicrafts, it was impossible to find a copy of the Jordan Times, let alone the International Herald Tribune. But I quibble. Who needs all that food for the brain when there is such wonderful food for the stomach? The Movenpick has several good restaurants offering cuisines from Italian to Chinese to Middle Eastern. My favorite was the Al Saraya buffet, an incredible spread of the best buffet food I have ever had. While not a huge eater, I made at least three trips just to the salad bar, lured by fresh zucchini salad and green beans with feta cheese and walnuts. Even the simplest foods -- locally grown cucumbers and black olives -- had a flavor far superior to anything found in a U.S. supermarket. The only problem with the buffet is that it is so good and so relatively cheap that almost everyone goes to it. When tour groups descend en masse, it can be impossible to find a table, so either go early or eat late. If you can rouse yourself from the Movenpick's sybaritic surroundings, Jordan has a surprising amount to offer. Nearby are what Jordanians say is the site of Jesus' baptism, and the ancient church at Mount Nebo, where Moses took his final look at the Promised Land. Farther, but still possible to reach in a day's trip, are Petra, the awe-inspiring cliff dwellings proclaimed the "rose-red city half as old as time," the spectacular desert scenery of Wadi Rum and the extensive, well-preserved ruins of Jerash, an ancient Roman city. And best of all, the buffet will be waiting when you return. IF YOU GOThe Movenpick Resort & Spa is on the northeastern shore of the Dead Sea, about an hour's drive from Queen Alia International Airport in Amman, Jordan, and less than 30 minutes from the King Hussein Bridge between Jordan and Israel. From the Movenpick, guests can make day trips to Jordan's many scenic and historical attractions. GETTING THERE: British Airways flies to Amman from Tampa via London. Amman is also served by Royal Jordanian Airlines from New York. Most visitors arriving from the Israeli side come as part of tour groups; check with a travel agency or airline for tour packages. RATES: The Movenpick has 232 rooms and suites, starting at a published rate of $155 for a single room. However, some package and discounted rates are available. WEATHER: Best times to visit are in the spring and fall; while the Dead Sea is warmer than Amman during the winter, the entire region is still prone to cold, gray days in January and February. Summers can be very hot, although the humidity is low. FOR MORE INFORMATION: The Movenpick has an Internet site: http://www.movenpick-hotels.com/deadsea_fs.htm. The e-mail address is: dseamp@globalone.com.jo . The phone number is 962-5-325-2030, and the fax number is 962-5-325-2020. * * *
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