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First Bite
By Times staff writer
© St. Petersburg Times, published October 26, 2000
Hawaiian style, all in good taste
Start the buzz to the rhythm of the war canoes. Or try to beat it.
Outback has another winner in Roy's (4342 W Boy Scout Boulevard, Tampa; (813) 873-7697). This first local branch of Hawaiian chef Roy Yamaguchi's chain gives a slick taste of his fusion of Pacific seafood with the creme of French saucery.
Barely a week out of the box, Roy's delivers tropical glamor on the plate and breezy style in the setting. Beautiful guitar and solitary anthuria; no Don Ho or tiki gods.
The taste matches exquisitely. Fish to try are ahi, walu and opah, with broccolini, squashes, seaweed and mashed potatoes; even the salmon shines, crusted with crab and sauced with lobster cream. A carnivorous temptation: lamb shanks with sweet pea risotto.
The menu changes daily, but dessert is always a must. Hawaii's macadamias are roasted to true glory in a tart crowned with luscious house-made cinnamon ice cream, a vanilla tuile and raspberries. The vast wine list includes custom blends from top winemakers around the world.
Prices run high (at least $20 for most entrees), but so do the standards, as they should for a top new restaurant in town.
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