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On Treasure Island, not far from the bounding main, a new restaurant with a piratical theme is serving fare that satisfies.
By KATHY SAUNDERS
© St. Petersburg Times, published November 8, 2000
TREASURE ISLAND -- Years ago, the former Sunset Beach Cafe was an elegant dinner spot with waiters in tuxedos. Later, it became a family diner. This summer, the restaurant took on a new name and a face lift to become the Islander Grill.
The goal of the pirate-themed eatery is to bring California cuisine to the West Coast of Florida. From homemade hamburger buns to carrot muffins, owner and chef Gus Scholle wants to change the flavor of beachfront food.
We visited the Grill during a recent weekday lunch hour. The hostess was happy to take our order over the phone.
The first menu item that caught our attention was the shrimp melt ($7.35) with shrimp salad and melting Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheeses, guacamole, lettuce and tomato. The melting took place on a grilled flat bread that was folded like a taco. With a choice of french fries, home fries, potato salad or carrot salad on the side, we chose the home fries. They were crisp, mixed with onions and very tasty.
The restaurant provided a stack of napkins with our order but not enough to sop up the mess after the shrimp melt. It was delicious, but way too gooey for my two girlfriends and me to share at lunch.
The barbecue beef sandwich ($6.95), a last-minute decision on our part, was one of our most satisfying choices. The beef was tangy but not too spicey. The French roll was nice and crunchy and a great mix with the barbecue. The bun was large and fresh, and we all devoured that within minutes. The side of potato salad was filled with onion, celery, pepper and a mustardy taste, fresh and flavorful.
Another interesting menu offering is called "Joey's Special Veggie Plate" ($6.95). It might have caught my attention because my 7-year-old Joey wouldn't touch a vegetable to save his life. But the dish also sounded somewhat healthful. The special included braised carrots, broccoli, roasted sweet peppers and sauteed onions over home-fried potatoes. The not-so-healthful part was the Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheese mixture that brought the whole dish together. It was yummy and came with a side salad of fresh lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, olives and pickles.
In keeping with the restaurant's theme, the hamburgers are all named after pirates. We chose a plain burger with curly fries -- medium done, as we requested. The burger was filling and came on a fresh, homemade bun. The Henry Morgan comes with grilled onions and American cheese. Black Beard's burger is served with salsa, cilantro, jalapeno peppers, guacamole, Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheese. The Mary Reed is topped with terriyaki chicken breast, mushrooms and Swiss cheese. All of the burgers are $6.95.
The Islander Grill has a six-page menu that includes a long list of breakfast items, from omelets to breakfast burritos.
It also includes homemade desserts, from cheesecake and pies to ice cream sundaes and whipped freezes. We were disappointed on the day we ordered to hear that none of the desserts were ready that afternoon. But we are looking forward to trying something sweet on our next visit.
Our next visit, in fact, might be for dinner. Last weekend the restaurant started opening two evenings a week, Fridays and Saturdays. The dinner menu should include entrees such as filet of sole and Cajun style grouper.
The Islander Grill
9701 First St. E
Treasure Island
Phone: 367-3359
Hours: Daily 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays 5-9 p.m.
Consumers: Three adults
What we got: A barbecue beef sub sandwich with a side order of cole slaw; shrimp melt with Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheese, guacamole, lettuce and tomato; a side of home fries; a vegetable plate with carrots, broccoli, roasted red peppers, sauteed onions and Cheddar cheese over home-fried potatoes; a side salad with vinaigrette dressing; and a hamburger with curly fries.
What it cost: $30.18
Time it took: 20 minutes
Pay with: cash, Mastercard and Visa