By JANET K. KEELER

© St. Petersburg Times,
published November 14, 2001

deconstructing
explanations from the inside out

yams vs. sweet potatoes

sweet potato

Okay, time to put on your thinking caps. This one is going to take some effort to understand. Sweet potatoes are not related to potatoes; they are members of the morning glory family. Sweet potatoes are not yams, which are tropical vine tubers with thick, barklike skin and dry flesh, according to Jack Bishop, author of Vegetables Every Day (HarperCollins, 2001).

yam

True yams, which aren't sweet and aren't orange-fleshed (they are white or yellowish), are imported into the United States on a limited basis from the Caribbean. Unfortunately, the produce and grocery industries sometimes use the word "yam" to describe sweet potatoes with vivid orange color and sweet, moist flesh. Because of this, the Department of Agriculture requires that all sweet potatoes labeled as "yams" carry a "sweet potato" label, too. How the mislabeling began is unclear.

Yams are integral in Caribbean cooking, and in many parts of the world, yam chunks are added to soups to give them heft.

There are two kinds of sweet potatoes available at most American markets. A pale sweet potato has thin, light-yellow skin and a pale yellow flesh, similar to a yam. After cooking, the flesh is dry and crumbly, much like a baking potato. The other popular variety of sweet potato has a thicker, dark-orange skin and vivid orange flesh. It is much moister when cooked.

the web site cooks

rats2u.com/thanksgiving/thanksgiving_recipes.htm

A beautiful bird Roasting a turkey and doing it well is a challenge, but even the occasional cook can do it with knowledge, strategy and the right tools. Here are some tips. Roasting times The following roasting times are for unstuffed turkeys cooked at 325 degrees: Brine your turkey for moist white meat The age-old problem with cooking a turkey is that the white meat is often dry compared with the moist, tasty dark meat. Thank goodness for gravy. Good gravy! There seem to be so many pitfalls to making smooth, robust gravy that many of us have turned to store-bought versions. dish explanations from the inside out: yams vs. sweet potatoes We'll be thankful for your holiday mishaps Thanksgiving is a special family time. By "special" we mean, of course, weird, comical and often fraught with complications.

If you're still looking for a yummy pumpkin pie recipe or are confused about which fork to eat salad with, this site will link you to recipes galore, plus plenty of helpful tips about the Day of Big Feasts. There's enough historical information here to help you put together a trivia quiz that can be played after the Macy's parade, at halftime of the game of your choice or when the kids (or the in-laws) get squirrelly. You'll find crafts projects to keep little hands busy, too.

constant comment

"Turkey is undoubtedly one of the best gifts that the New World has made to the Old." -- French writer Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826)

cooking class

When mulling ciders or wine, use whole spices, such as cinnamon stick, allspice berries, peppercorns or star anise. Whole spices are more potent, and ground versions make these drinks look unpleasantly muddied. If your grocery store doesn't carry whole spices, look for them at gourmet shops or natural foods stores.

countdown to T-Day

With Thanksgiving a week from Thursday, now is the time to check your linen situation. Are your tablecloth and napkins clean? Do they need to be pressed or taken to the laundry? If you need new, measure the table and buy one this weekend. That will be easier than fighting the crowds next week.

Other chores to get out of the way this week: Clean up your flatware and make sure you have enough chairs. If you need to borrow either, make those calls this week.

mustard and onions

French's latest addition to the flavored mustard scene is Sweet Onion. Use it to add a little mild onion flavor (it contains dried onion) without actual chopped or sliced onions on hot dogs, hamburgers and sandwiches. Keep the mustard in mind and handy for a tasty dip for pretzels, meatballs or egg rolls or to spread on baked ham or other meats and in wraps. The mustard has 10 calories per teaspoon, 70 milligrams sodium and no fat. It is available in a 12-ounce squeeze bottle (with a green top); suggested retail price is $2.49.

global beans

For coffee connoisseurs, Starbucks has combed the globe for the best beans of this year's crop. The result is Starbucks Special Reserve 2001. With beans from Guatemala, Ethiopia and Kenya, the blend brews into a rich and satisfying cup. It's available at Starbucks locations for $15.95 a pound or online at www.starbucks.com.

Color it crimson

Chantal cookware, always so striking in cobalt blue, fire engine red, crisp white or stainless steel, is adding crimson to its palette. Crimson is deeper than the existing red, more like cranberry, says a Chantal spokeswoman. The collection includes many pieces that are designed for both cooking and serving, such as soup pots, a fondue pot, ramekins and a pie pan. Prices range from $2.99 for a heart-shaped ramekin to $229.99 for a seven-piece cookware set. Look for Chantal cookware at specialty shops and large department stores.

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