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Before Christmas went commercial
By MICHAEL SCHUMAN
From the apothecary to Christiana Campbell's Tavern -- and at all the private homes in between -- Christmas around the 173-acre re-creation of Virginia's colonial capital is as sincere a holiday celebration as you will find at a tourist destination, unsullied by 20th century, or even 19th century, commercialization. No Muzak versions of Jingle Bell Rock, no Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer. And no nostalgia for the scenes depicted in the prints by Currier and Ives -- in the colonial period depicted, Currier and Ives haven't been born. But there is enough Christmas spirit to permeate the hardened soul of even the most dour Scrooge. (Of course, Scrooge has not been created yet, either.) When we enter the James Geddy House, frozen in the year 1770, we see holly trimmings surrounding picture frames and decorating the parlor mantle. James and Elizabeth Geddy and their daughters, Nancy and Mary, are engaged in the then-popular game of goose. Before we exit, they break into a rousing rendition of God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen, and some of us visitors join in. The groaning board
Williamsburg's heritage was largely ignored for most of a century. But in 1926, John D. Rockefeller was persuaded by a local minister to finance the archaeological resurrection of the town. Nearly 90 original buildings have been restored, and there are hundreds of authentically reproduced structures. Many of the buildings are privately owned and occupied, which adds an unusual touch to touring on its broad streets. Part of the attraction's lure is attention to detail and the emphasis on seasonal changes in the lifestyle of the colonists on the even of the American Revolution. Thus visitors at this time of year find that 18th century folks celebrated Christmas much the way the citizenry of 2001 does, with music, social gatherings and feasting (plus more feasting), but without contemporary frills. In the Wythe House, a young woman in smock and cotton dress stirs a sweet potato pudding while a duck roasts on a spit. In the Wythe House dining room you may encounter a table set for a winter repast: roast duck, Yorkshire Christmas pie, scalloped oysters, side dishes and, at each seat, a roll tucked inside a linen napkin. Adorning the Christmas dinner table across the Palace Green at the Peyton-Randolph House is an enticing dessert called a hedgehog. Shaped like the spiny little critter for which it is named, this hedgehog's body of almond paste is stuck with slivered blanched almonds to look like bristles, while two currants resemble eyes.
Of the boiled turkey on the Peyton-Randolph House table, our guide says, "People then took pride in having their Christmas turkey come out white, so they put white oyster sauce on top. Anyone could make a brown turkey."
Or for a melange of entertainment and feasting offered only at Christmas, reserve a seat at the early Virginia pig-out known as the groaning board. The name stems from the reports that the table groans from the weight of all the food. At this meal, you can dip your sippets (bread sticks) into Virginia peanut soup and chow down on salmagundi, an 18th century chef's salad. Meanwhile, the Williamsburg Madrigal Singers belt out Deck the Halls and We Wish You a Merry Christmas. Savor Southern fried chicken as your host renders A Coventry Carol on his crooked-necked baroque lute. The main course, roast top sirloin of beef, is presented by waiters in step behind a marching fife and drum band. The dinner's master of ceremonies gleefully unreels puns, and to the chorus of protests from the diners, he asserts, "That's another reason why this feast is called the groaning board." With or without puns, the atmosphere is convivial. Strangers placed side by side at the tables chat easily with one another, comparing the day's adventures or wondering aloud just what is figgy pudding? Diners also learn another gritty fact of the colonial era when one visitor asks for a steak knife to replace his dull one. "This the only kind we have," responds a waiter. "Back then they ate with their hands." Caroling, decorating -- and workA few diners are encouraged to join the Williamsburg Dancers on stage in a Virginia reel. More music is heard outdoors, and visitors can join in here, too. Carol sings are held in different locations, at the Courthouse one night, the Capitol or Palace Green the next. On the nightly lantern tour (spell it "lanthorn" and you will pass as a colonial expert), a guide leads all by lantern light through the streets and into the homes. Daytime activities include Christmas decorations tours and workshops, affording a look at the crafting, care and symbolism of those luscious garlands seen on so many front doors. Visitors also hear the truth about these decorations -- they are not historically accurate but are created solely for tourists' benefit. Yet all are made from materials that would have been available in 18th century Williamsburg, and the original residents of Virginia's colonial capital really did deck the interiors of their homes with garlands and greens. Of course, work did not stop during the Christmas season, any more than it does now. The shops and houses on or around Duke of Gloucester Street are open on a rotating basis, with nearly all accepting visitors daily. Here, visitors learn why "flipping your wig" actually took place in the 18th century, when they meet the wigmaker. And they can examine fashionable hats and gloves on which the mop-hatted milliner is applying finishing touches. There is the opportunity to see a "modern" old-fashioned Christmas. Drive about 8 miles to Carter's Grove, a James River plantation that is part of the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. The Carter's Grove sitting room is dominated by an 8-foot cedar Christmas tree with Tinkertoys and an electric train underneath, which jog the memories of some visitors. The time frame represented is 1940, when owner Archibald McCrea and his wife, Molly, began restoration of the plantation. Recorded carols by Bing Crosby reinforce the feeling, but it can be a surprise to hear him crooning, over the period radio, God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen -- the same carol the Geddy family sang in their 1770 parlor. Proof that classics survive the passage of time. If you go
SOMETHING EXTRA: This year, Gerald Charles Dickens, the great-great grandson of Charles Dickens, brings a touch of old England to Colonial Williamsburg during the holidays. Dressed in top hat, frock coat and waistcoat, Dickens performs his ancestor's miniature masterpiece, A Christmas Carol, during an afternoon tea or four-course dinner Dec. 4 and 5. SEEING THE SIGHTS: Three passes are available, along with general admission: Liberty Pass (yearlong admission to all buildings with special programs and activities, $55 adults, $23 ages 6-17), Freedom Pass (yearlong admission without the amenities, $38 adults, $19 ages 6-17; $28 adults, $14 ages 6-17 for those staying in a the Colonial Williamsburg hotels, Day Pass (valid one day, $32 adults, $16 ages 6-17). There is an extra charge to attend most Christmas events. It is best to reserve tickets in advance, although tickets for events that are frequently held can often be purchased upon arrival at the Visitor Center and the Greenhow Lumber House. Colonial Williamsburg is open 365 days a year. STAYING THERE: The nonprofit Colonial Williamsburg Foundation owns and operates several types of facilities ranging from the highly regarded Williamsburg Inn (rooms start at $375 per night) to its 200-room hotel the Governor's Inn ($85 to $95). Visitors also can stay in several of Williamsburg's colonial homes and taverns (rates run from $185 to $470). Discount packages including lodging, guided tours, breakfasts and more are available. For lodging information and reservations, call toll-free 1-800-447-8679. Independent bed and breakfasts, all within walking distance of the village, include: Applewood Colonial Bed & Breakfast, 605 Richmond Road, toll-free 1-800-899-2753 or (757) 229-0205; www.williamsburgbandb.com. Colonial decor and four-poster beds, four rooms, full breakfast, $100 to $185 per room. Liberty Rose Bed and Breakfast, 1022 Jamestown Road, 1-800-545-1825 or (757) 253-1260; www.libertyrose.com. Eclectic English and French colonial style house, each room decorated with a Christmas tree from various periods, four rooms (one with fireplace), full breakfast, $155 to $225. The Cedars Bed and Breakfast, 616 Jamestown Road, 1-800-296-3591 or (757) 229-3591; www.cedarsofwilliamsburg.com. Colonial revival building with antiques and reproductions, eight rooms and a cottage, full breakfast, $95 to $150 per room, $150 to $275 for the cottage. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact the Christmas Events Reservations Office, P.O. Box 1776, Williamsburg, VA 23187; call toll-free 1-800-404-3389; the Web site is www.colonialwilliamsburg.org. For nonholiday events, call toll-free 1-800-447-8679; the Web site is www.history.org. For general information, contact the Williamsburg Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, toll-free 1-800-368-6511, www.visitwilliamsburg.com, and the Williamsburg Hotel and Motel Association, 1-800-446-9244, www.mywilliamsburgvacation.com. - Freelance writer Michael Schuman lives in Keene, N.H.
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From the Times Travel page
From the AP |
GETTING THERE: Colonial Williamsburg is about equidistant from Richmond and Norfolk, both of which have air service, with connections, to the Tampa Bay area. The attraction is just off Interstate 64, at exit 238, and there is Amtrak service to the area.
