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One island, three themes
By THOMAS R. and DEBORAH A. FLETCHER © St. Petersburg Times, published December 3, 2000 Is it European? Is it Caribbean? It is. It is St. Maarten or, if you prefer, it is St. Martin. Because it is both: one island, just 37 square miles, control of which has been shared by France and the Netherlands since they signed a treaty dividing the island in 1648. The island presents the opportunity to visit two destinations in one, for each side offers something different, and the Caribbean culture is overlaid with European flavors.
The two countries have gotten along fairly amicably over the centuries, so much so that there are no checkpoints at border crossings. Border markers are so unobtrusive, in fact, that a visitor can cross from one part of the island to the other without realizing it. France controls the larger portion, 21 square miles that is the northern section of the island. Well known for the fine cuisine featured in many restaurants, this region is a sub-prefecture of Guadeloupe, an overseas region of France. Air France makes daily flights to the island, so there is always a good supply of French wines and fresh ingredients for chefs of the island. Wednesdays and Saturdays, Market Square in Margot is jammed with shoppers seeking the best prices on fruit, vegetables and fresh fish. Meanwhile, aromas drifting from area restaurants stir hunger within shoppers and passersby. Margot is the capital of French St. Martin and has a more distinct European feel, while the Dutch side of St. Maarten seems more Caribbean. St. Maarten is part of the Netherlands Antilles, which includes the islands of Curacao, St. Eustatius, Saba and Bonaire. The capital of Philipsburg is a popular cruise ship port; when a ship is in, the downtown streets are gorged with tourists looking for duty-free bargains -- reason for some visitors to avoid the area. St. Maarten does have some good prices for those shoppers, but another major lure is its 12 casinos, something not found on the French side. For those who want to sightsee, the Courthouse in the heart of Philipsburg is a prime stop. The original structure was built in 1793.
Some customers take the race seriously, while others try to look busy while enjoying the outing. The hilly island is ringed with 37 beautiful beaches, lovely stretches of white sand hemmed in by crystal-clear water. Orient Beach is the only official clothing-optional beach, although nudity is not strictly ruled out on any beach. Outside Quarter d' Orleans, near Orient Bay, is the Butterfly Farm. Housed in the "butterfly sphere," the farm features 45 species of tropical butterflies in all stages of growth, from eggs through breeding adults. Visitors may see a butterfly emerging from its chrysalis, watch it spread its soft, moist wings and even watch the wings harden. Guides explain the progression to butterfly and identify the various species. The farm is open daily, year-round, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. A driving tour of the island could be wrapped up within three hours, but why rush? Thomas R. and Deborah A. Fletcher are freelance photojournalists who live in Cowen, W.Va. If you goGETTING THERE: Princess Juliana Airport has direct flights from Miami, Atlanta and New York, among other U.S. cities. U.S. citizens need only a passport or an official, raised-seal, birth certificate and photo identification. GETTING AROUND: Rental cars are delivered to the customer's hotel; there is no airport rental facility or pickup. The narrow roads seemed more challenging than we wanted to negotiate, so we used convenient taxis to get around the island. Official languages of the island are French and Dutch, though English is spoken seemingly everywhere. Official currencies are the French franc and the Netherlands Antilles florin; again, U.S. dollars were accepted everywhere we visited, and most prices are marked in dollars. Speaking of prices, don't expect to pay the marked price for all items, especially jewelry. There is plenty of room for negotiation. There is a difference in the electrical voltage from one side of the island to the other: The Dutch side is 110 volts, the same as in the United States, while the French side is 220 volts. If you plan to stay on the French side and using electrical appliances such a hair dryers, take an adapter. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON DUTCH ST. MAARTEN: Contact the St. Maarten Tourist Office, 675 Third Ave., Suite 1806, New York, NY 10017; call (212) 953-2084 or (800) 786-2278); fax to (212) 2953-2145; e-mail to info@st-maarten.com. For information the yacht races, contact St. Maarten 12-Metre Challenge, P.O Box 2064, St. Maarten, N.A; e-mail to Metres12@hotmail.com. The Butterfly Farm's e-mail address is slayter@sintmaarten.net. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON FRENCH ST. MARTIN: Contact the St. Martin Tourist Office, 10 E 21st Str. Suite 600, New York, NY 10010; call (212) 475-8970 or (877) 956-1234; fax: (212) 260-8481.
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