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The Nibbler: In celebration of a homegrown treat
By CHRIS SHERMAN LONGBOAT KEY -- Even in the best of times, there's nothing normal about a three-day feast on a 1,000-pound pile of stone crabs, prestige wines and the cooking of the most celebrated chefs in the country. But when stone crab fans, gourmets and plain gourmands gathered to feast on Florida's homegrown luxury at the 12th annual Stone Crab Festival at the Colony Resort in Longboat Key, they could not escape the shadows of the Sept. 11 attacks. Attendance was down slightly, but on a happier note for stone crab consumers, the overall slump in the U.S. economy -- and the continuing recession in Japan -- has also kept the prices of Florida's homegrown luxury down this year. Even writer John Mariani, an inveterate promoter of gourmet indulgence, kicked off the first session of tastings with a defense of luxurious dining, invoking Winston Churchill, Anne Frank and others. "The good life is the best revenge," he contended. Others had more serious concerns. One guest, Rusty Staub, former New York Met, restaurateur and wine connoisseur, was recognized for founding one of New York's biggest charities for families of police and firefighters some years ago. That sparked Ben Howkins, who exports the luscious Royal Tokaji from Hungary, to auction a book he wrote on that ancient wine. It brought more than $300. For visiting chef Waldy Malouf of New York's Beacon restaurant, the festival was his first trip outside the citysince the attack. He has been engrossed in the tragedy, raising funds for the families of restaurant workers from the World Trade Center. The collapse of the towers killed and injured workers from pastry chefs to dishwashers at the trade center's famous Windows on the World and its other restaurants. As a partner of the owners of Windows and a veteran of the Rainbow Room and New York kitchens, Malouf knew many of those who died and helped establish the Windows of Hope charity to help the victims in the food service industry. Through a nationwide benefit Oct. 11 and other events, Windows has raised $6-million so far and in the process recognized those on the lower rungs of the restaurant industry. "It was pretty devastating. My prep cooks, purchasers, I knew all these people who were going to need help," Malouf said. He reported that traffic in many New York restaurants is somewhat subdued, but his restaurant was relatively fortunate. Beacon is built around an open fire and sticks to simple foods such as wood-roasted trout or pork shanks, so it has a hearth that regulars found comforting and nourishing. "It's like coming home." Still, Malouf, who grew up in Palm Harbor and Tarpon Springs, did not object to the sheer pleasure of the stone crab event. "I love to taste them this fresh and this sweet. I've been eating them for breakfast." And an event celebrating one of Florida's seasonal crops helps people understand the origins of food, he said. "It educates them about the fishermen and the seasons, that they (stone crabs) don't come from a machine, frozen and wrapped in plastic. It's a local thing and seasonal. It's also great fun, and it really tastes good." The work of both local crabbers and kitchen help was obvious in the stone crabs, which the kitchen crew spent long hours cracking. More than 300 pounds were served up on mounds of ice for cocktail nibbling with little more than mustard or a squeeze of lemon; still more were given to visiting chefs to gild in curry salad, ceviche and shrimp stuffing. One of the most intriguing combinations, however, came from Khan Duong of Ana Mandara, the star-studded Vietnamese restaurant on San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf (and TV's Nash Bridges). He used shrimp paste, a classic Vietnamese recipe often wrapped around a sugar cane stick, to coat the crab claw, which he then fried quickly. Served with Asian chili sauce, the crab was crunchy and peppery enough to stand up to a stout young cabernet from Constant Vineyards. Shrimp Pate-Wrapped Whole Claw With Sweet Chile Sauce
In a large bowl, combine the sugar and salt with the scallion, pepper, fish sauce and oil. Stir in the shrimp and coat well. Put in the freezer to marinate and firm up, about 20 minutes. Put the shrimp mixture in a food processor bowl and add the egg white. Process, scraping the sides of the bowl a few times, until smooth, about 30 seconds. Oil a steamer, then your hands. Take about 2 tablespoons of the shrimp paste and wrap it around a crab claw, leaving about 1 inch exposed on the end. Put the wrapped claws in the steamer and repeat with the remaining shrimp paste and claws. In a large saucepan, bring about 1 inch of water to a boil over high heat. Place the steamer basket in the saucepan, cover and steam the claws for 1 minute. Remove the basket and set aside to cool slightly. Light a grill, preheat a broiler or prepare a deep fat fryer. When you are ready to serve the claws, you can deep fry them or grill them on charcoal until browned and puffed all over. When done, serve hot with sweet chili sauce. Makes 2 to 4 servings. Note: This paste can be wrapped around sugar cane sticks or asparagus spears. -- Source: Chef Khai Duong, Ana Mandara, San Francisco
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From the Times Taste section From the features wire |
