St. Petersburg Times Online: Taste

Weather | Sports | Forums | Comics | Classifieds | Calendar | Movies

Adriano's entrees worth the calories

A variety of sauces, lots of garlic and olive oil, fresh-made bread sticks and specialties like chicken Parmesan make this a favorite neighborhood stop.

By KATHY SAUNDERS

© St. Petersburg Times, published December 6, 2000


ST. PETERSBURG -- If you like garlic and olive oil, Adriano's Italian Restaurant will make your mouth water.

Nearly every dish we tried on a recent Monday night was swimming in oil and garlic. I even had to scrape a fair amount of garlic off our pizza before my 7-year-old son noticed. He would have refused to try a slice if he saw any white specks.

What he did eat, he loved. And so did we. The pizza ($5.95) was thin and juicy with lots of cheese and tasty sauce.

We were in a hurry on the night we stopped by the restaurant, eager to buy our Christmas tree on the local lot. I phoned Adriano's as soon as my husband left his office. By the time he arrived, about 15 minutes later, our food was almost ready.

We started with the side salads, packed in foam containers that were bursting on the sides. The lettuce was fresh and torn into large pieces. The greens were topped with chunks of tomatoes and cucumber. The homemade vinaigrette dressing, which we took on the side, had a bit of a tangy flavor.

We were completely happy with the salads and pizza. The three other entrees were more than we needed, but well worth the calories.

Our favorite was the chicken Parmesan ($11.95). Owner Adriano D'Argento says it is one of his biggest sellers. The dish included a large breast of chicken, breaded and cooked to a nice, not rubbery, texture. It was smothered in marinara and mozzarella cheese. The side of spaghetti was shared by three of us as well.

One of our friends said he stops by the neighborhood restaurant for Parmesan chicken about three times a week. We probably would too if we lived closer.

The daily special ($8.95) also was a big hit. It included eight tortellinis stuffed with four cheeses. The bulging pasta pockets were covered in large slices of portobello mushrooms, cheese and a garlic and oil sauce. It had a rich taste that made us appreciate every bite.

The lasagna ($8.25) was filled with large noodles and meat, but the sauce was too salty for us. The portion was ample, and we finished it despite our complaints.

One of the biggest treats was the garlic bread. That, too, had large amounts of garlic sprinkled on top. The bread sticks are baked fresh daily and served in large bundles. We scarfed those down.

D'Argento usually prepares a new special every week. Fried ravioli ($6.95) topped with gorgonzola cheese and served with marinara dipping sauce is one of his most popular. The price includes eight ravioli.

Veal Parmesan ($12.75) is another customer favorite, he said.

The owner and chef was trained in his native Italy before working in Scotland for 17 years as a chef at gourmet restaurants. He opened Adriano's in 1991.

D'Argento serves all the traditional Italian appetizers and pastas, including cold antipasto ($6.50) and minestrone soup ($3.75 for a bowl and $2.75 per cup). His pasta sauces include tomato, oil and garlic, marinara, mushroom, clam, meat, alfredo, anchovy, carbonara, mussels, puttanesca with black olives and onions, Piemontese with green olives, mozzarella cheese, tomato and garlic, seafood and vegetarian primavera. The pastas range in price from $5.75 to $11.75.

Besides baked Italian casseroles, D'Argento prepares seafood, veal, steaks and chicken dinners as well as sausage and peppers. Adriano's offers desserts and a children's menu.

Pinellas to go

Adriano's Italian Restaurant

3405 34th St. N, St. Petersburg

Phone: 528-4428

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday.

Consumers: Three adults and one child

What we got: Small pizza, cheese tortellini with portobello mushroom sauce, meat lasagna, chicken Parmesan with spaghetti, three side salads with vinaigrette dressing and garlic bread.

What it cost: $37.56

Time it took: 15 minutes

Pay with: Cash and major credit cards

© Copyright, St. Petersburg Times. All rights reserved.