[an error occurred while processing this directive]

printer version

Side dish

By CHRIS SHERMAN

© St. Petersburg Times, published December 7, 2000


MALLS 'N' MEALS

The newest chain aimed our way is Maggiano's Little Italy, historic family-style Italian from Lettuce Entertain You, the Chicago themesters, and Brinker International, the folks who brought you Steak & Ale, Chili's and Romano's Macaroni Grill. Coming to Tampa's WestShore Plaza next spring.

What's different from other Italians?

Creators gave Maggiano's a decor from prewar Little Italy, and red-checked tablecloths with dark wood furniture. The menu is long on southern Italian favorites such as mostaccioli and chicken Marsala. They've got full dinners with portions and tables for families of all sizes; a la carte entrees run $11 to $30.

And it'll be big -- 650 seats. That's a big family.

At St. Petersburg's new Bay Walk, TooJay's deli and Adobo Grill are the only restaurants open, so they're packing them in. (Next up: Johnny Rockets on Dec. 18.)

Lines form for pastrami, corned beef and seven kinds of rugalach before noon at TooJay's on weekdays and fill the place for family dinners; it's as if Wolfie's never closed. Great liverwurst, but put more kraut and Russian dressing on those reubens.

Red Mesa spinoff Adobo Grill pulls in younger crowds at lunch and all through the movie schedule. It's good to have fish tacos back.

Centro Ybor has opened its Big Mouth, a Johnny Rockets with millennial attitude (and burgers, sandwiches, chopped salads and sides). With prices from $2.45 to $4.95, Centro gets much-needed budget bites.

I'VE HAD ENOUGH

... Jim Bowie steak knives. When I order a top-dollar steak, why do I get a a blade that Crocodile Dundee would envy? Restaurants used to strive for steaks so tender you could cut 'em with a butter knife. Giving me a saw-toothed cutlass has a lot of macho appeal: I think I might have to flay the beast, too.

-- CHRIS SHERMAN, Times food critic

[an error occurred while processing this directive]

Back to Weekend
[an error occurred while processing this directive]
  • Rude 'tude at the Hydeaway
  • Persall's Top Five
  • All locked up with no place to go
  • Family Movie Guide
  • A rope, a precipice and gravity
  • Also in Theaters
  • 'Nutty' and naughty
  • Nite Life: Hot Ticket
  • Shopping savvy
  • First Bite
  • Side dish
  • For kids at heart
  • Get Away: Down the road
  • Relax in Venice, close to home
  • He's An 'Excitable Boy'!! She Kisses Girls!!
  • Pop: On the horizon
  • Sacks is dark, smoky and elegant
  • Night Life: Ticket Window
  • Team Pop Trivia
  • Art: Best bets
  • Perspective on a life's work
  • Stage: On the horizon
  • The birth of a symphony
  • Stop and shop for art
  • Hot Tickets
  • Tampa's SoHo -- It's to dine for
  • Stretch your mind and body
  • Guaranteed to get you in the holiday spirit
  • [an error occurred while processing this directive]