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Flavored by the Caribbean

Oxtails, calaloo and cow's feet are just some of the delicacies served up by Ms. P's Kitchen.

By J. NEALY-BROWN
© St. Petersburg Times,
published December 12, 2001


PINELLAS TO GO

Ms. P's Kitchen
3002 Central Ave.,
St. Petersburg

Phone: 327-1656

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday

Consumers: Two adults (for two meals)

What we got: Curry goat, cow foot and oxtail dinners, beef patties and cream cheese pound cake

What it cost: $25.65

Time it took: 20 minutes

Pay with: Cash

Okay. This time, I felt very adventurous when I looked at the menu from Ms. P's Kitchen, a restaurant that specializes in Caribbean food. Most of the items looked familiar, but the cow foot dinner was definitely new territory.

Admittedly, as a child, I ate pickled pig feet that convenience store owners plucked from a huge jar of red vinegar. I haven't had one of those in so long and am not sure I could be paid to eat one now.

Still, I figured there was some familiarity with animal feet as a delicacy, so I put in the order.

The beef patties ($1.33) didn't make it home. (I confessed to my husband the next morning that I ate them both and, because I'm pregnant, I once again played the I'm-eating-for-two card.) The bread was good and flaky and the meat was spicy, but not so hot that I couldn't enjoy it. It really hit the spot, especially because I could hold it in my hand while driving.

The rest of the food, however, did make it home.

All of the dinners we ordered ($6.50 for a small portion) came with plantains, a small tossed salad and a choice of white rice or rice and peas. We got rice and peas.

The restaurant, which has a few small tables, serves breakfast. Saltfish, calaloo (similar to collard greens) and liver dishes are served with a choice of bread or dumplings. For lunch, Ms. P's Kitchen offers chicken, beef, red beans and vegetable soups. She also serves pepper steak, brown stew chicken and traditional jerk dishes in small and large sizes.

I ate before my husband, Brent, and decided to dig in to the cow's feet first. I couldn't get past the gummy consistency, although it was extremely well-seasoned with onions, tomatoes, scallions and other spices. When Brent fixed his food, he got a little of everything. And he ate all of it.

Later, I asked him how he liked the cow's feet. And he said, "Is that what that was?" He thought they were pig's feet. Still, he raved that they were seasoned just right.

The oxtails, always a favorite in our house, were not as tender as we had expected. The flavor was better than we expected. There were carrot slices in the dark sauce, which provided a nice gravy for the peas and rice.

Our favorite dish was the curry goat. The portions were plentiful, and the meat was tender and mild-tasting. I'm not sure when I last had goat, but I probably will have it a little more often now that I've had a refresher.

The peas and rice were moist and delicious. The plantains, sliced thinly, are always a highlight for me. These were not a disappointment. In fact, I considered this dessert.

Brent, however, skipped the plantains and went for the cream cheese pound cake ($2.50). He wolfed that down, too.

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