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dish

By JANET K. KEELER, Times Staff Writer

© St. Petersburg Times, published December 23, 2001


A weekly serving of food news and views

A weekly serving of food news and views

deconstructing

explanations from the inside out

gingerbread

The tradition of fashioning gingerbread into people and houses comes from Germany, birthplace of many other holiday traditions, such as the decorated Christmas tree, advent wreaths and Silent Night.

Gingerbread, however, includes a wide varity of sweet, spicy cookies, cakes and breads, according to the Encyclopedia of Christmas by Tanya Gulevich (Omnigraphics, 2000). Ginger-flavored sweets originated in medieval Europe, where ginger was a popular spice, prized for its taste and its medicinal properties. Also, medieval cooks discovered that ginger preserved pastries and breads. Ginger originated in the Middle East and reached Europe by the 11th century.

Gingerbread evolved into a Christmas treat because of its association with special events. Vendors, traveling to fairs across England, Germany, France and the Netherlands, became adept at cutting the gingerbread into fanciful shapes, associated with the time of year. According to Gulevich, gingerbread flowers were popular in spring. Other shapes included windmills, kings, queens and various animals. By the 18th century, gingerbread makers had developed their art so elaborately that the term "gingerbread work" was coined to describe fancy, carved, wooden trim on houses.

constant comment

"A geological homemade cake." -- Charles Dickens' Martin Chuzzlewit on fruitcake.

cooking class

The only foolproof way to know when a roast is cooked is to check its internal temperature by inserting a thermometer into the center of the meat. Always let roasts rest at room temperature for at least 10 minutes or up to a half an hour before carving, so the juices can draw back into the meat. To avoid overcooking, remember that roasts continue to cook after they come from the oven, by as much as 10 to 15 degrees.

this web site cooks

www.McCormick.com

If you haven't yet mailed a card to your friend up North, it's too late for this Christmas. Rather than wish for better luck next year, send her e-mail greetings and a hand-picked recipe from McCormick's site. You can choose from a variety of card styles and even add a personal message to your electronic greeting. For instance, a spinach dip recipe will arrive just in time to be considered for a New Year's Eve menu. The Web site also features a holiday page with recipes, entertaining ideas and gift basket suggestions.

jolly red fruit

The bright red pomegranate is a once-a-year treat that peaks during the holiday season. To make opening pomegranates easier, remove the crown end. Slit the skin apart in several places. Immerse the fruit in a bowl of water and soak five minutes. Hold the fruit under water to prevent the splattering of juice and break the sections apart, separating the seeds from the rind and membrane. Seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl. Store seeds in plastic bags in the refrigerator for a few days or freeze up to three months. Sprinkle seeds over salads, fruit desserts or cakes. The whole seed is edible, but when eating out of hand, some people prefer just the juice and discard the seed.

gifts from the pros

What would a professional chef give an amateur cook friend on his or her list? Maybe it depends on how naughty/nice their friends have been. Regardless, here's what would be on a few chefs' shopping lists:

Sara Moulton of Food Network's Cooking Live and executive chef of Gourmet magazine: The basics -- a good knife, a salad spinner, a grater, a rasp and some of those new spatulas that don't melt at high temperatures.

Alain Ducasse, New York and Paris chef-restaurateur: Fine lobster or fresh red snapper. Or top-quality knives or a copper-bottomed, stainless steel pot and pan.

Alice Waters, author, chef, owner and founder of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif.: A card redeemable for a picnic catered by her, a basket filled with fresh produce or a marble mortar and pestle.

save the cookie cutters

It seems no matter how many times you swipe a metal cookie cutter with the dish towel, there's always a drop of water left clinging to a stubborn curve or crevice. But those tiny, inedible packets of silica gel frequently found in vitamin bottles or even a shoe box can keep heirloom holiday cutters shiny and in good working order, according to Regan Daley, author of In the Sweet Kitchen: The Definitive Baker's Companion (Artisan, 2001). Daley recommends including one or two packets of unopened silica to prevent rust when packing the cutters away for the year. Alternatively, dust the cutters with a little cornstarch before storing them in an aerated container.

set the table, today

If possible, set the table for your Christmas day feast today or at least before you get completely involved in cooking. This assures that all platters are clean and paired with the proper serving utensils. When setting a buffet for a large crowd, make sure there is easy access to utensils and multiple stations of foods to encourage a natural flow, so guests don't get trapped in long lines.

- Compiled by Janet K. Keeler, from staff and wire reports

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