Party favors

By JANET K. KEELER

© St. Petersburg Times, published December 27, 2000

Serving hors d'oeuvres to celebrate the New Year is an elegant way to fill the guests and help ease the host's stress level.

Devising the menu for an hors d'oeuvre fete is a little like naming a baby. You start with a list of possibilities and then cast aside suggestions through seemingly reasoned thinking.

"Too stuffy."

"Too fussy."

"Too old-fashioned."

"Too obscure."

"Too trendy."

"Too much."

Unless you are naming 102 Dalmatians, you must settle on one or two. Luckily, with hors d'oeuvres your list can be as long as your imagination. Your food-loving guests will toast to that.

For New Year's Eve celebrations and New Year's Day open houses, with or without the backdrop of college football, little bites of food sustain the party and make life easier for the host.

"A large number of guests can be accommodated without matching dinner service, tables or even chairs," write Eric Treuille and Victoria Blashford-Snell in Hors D'Oeuvres (DK Publishing, 1999). "Stacks of dirty pans, dishes and cutlery cluttering up the sink are not a burden, because hors d'oeuvres are easily hand held with only a small paper napkin and simply eaten."

Parmesan-rosemary rounds are easy to prepare, but the dough must be made the day before.

I might give my guests a little more than a clever cocktail napkin for their noshes, but the point is well-taken. Make it easy, to prepare and to eat. An hors d'oeuvre that can go from the tray to the mouth in one deft motion is a winner. If a knife and fork are required, you are serving sit-down food. Hors d'oeuvre is a French expression that literally translated means "outside the work," used in this way to mean "apart from the main meal." Though it is used interchangeably with appetizers, hors d'oeuvres are meant to be eaten with cocktail in one hand; appetizer more aptly describes what you order in a restaurant to start your meal.

Besides making it easy, make it ahead. The more that can be prepared ahead of the party, the more time you have to enjoy the gathering. Don't make yourself into a short-order cook, spending the entire time in the kitchen. You deserve a little fun, too.

Easy and elegant are not mutually exclusive words. Chef Emil Topel, owner of Fancy's Specialty Market in St. Petersburg, teaches at-home cooks how to entertain with the greatest of ease and makes a point of pointers on how to get things done early. One of his favorite make-ahead hors d'oeuvres is his Pepper Nectar Caramelized Pears with Goat Cheese Bruschetta.

Traditional bruschetta is sliced, toasted Italian bread rubbed with garlic, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt: the original garlic bread. Since its popularity as a party food has grown, you'll find the toasted slices dressed with anything from tomatoes, garlic and basil to olive tapenade to prosciutto and figs. The beauty of bruschetta, says Topel, is that the toast can be made ahead and stored in zipper-type bags. Top the toasted bread right before serving; the liquid makes the bread soggy if it sits on it for too long.

Sometimes it pains to admit it, but Martha Stewart is my friend. Her Martha Stewart's Hors d'oeuvres Handbook (Clarkson Potter, 1999) is an inspirational cookbook, a must for anyone who entertains at home. Each recipe is accompanied by a photo that looks good enough to eat. There are several recipes for crackers and bread sticks that can be made even up to a week ahead. The Parmesan-Rosemary Icebox Crackers, pictured on page 1D, were a snap to throw together, and the dough MUST be made in advance because it has to chill for 24 hours. The recipe calls for a teaspoon of kosher salt, but I suggest leaving it out. The salt in the Parmesan cheese is plenty. Also, the recipe doesn't require flipping the crackers as they bake, but you may have to, to get them to brown evenly. That said, they are worth the effort.

Stock up on dipping stuff, traditional chips, interesting crackers, fresh veggies, and go crazy with dips. A perusal of several culinary Web sites turns up many great recipes -- among them Asian-Style Dip and Apple Dip With a Twist -- that will add versatility, not to mention heft, to the table. Best Hot Crab Dip is a favorite that can be made before the party and popped into the oven at the last minute.

Once you decide what to make, you'll have to decide how much. There should be enough food for each person to have eight to 10 bites. This doesn't mean you must offer 10 different items, just make sure there are enough of two or three for people to have seconds.

When I develop an hors d'oeuvres party menu, I include a couple of showstoppers, such as Topel's goat cheese bruschetta, jerk-marinated chicken drumettes, savory tarts or maybe a cold shrimp dish. Then I add one or two flavorful dips with a variety of appropriate dippers. A Mideastern hummus calls for toasted pita chips; a hearty Mexican bean dip needs sturdy tortilla chips. Raw veggies or fruit kebabs are fresh and palate-cleansing additions always welcomed by diet-conscious revelers. Bowls of interesting snacks such as Cajun-flavored nuts or tropical-inspired trail mixes help fill up guests and give the cook a break. Finally, I think of sweets and make one or two desserts, which might be as simple as cookies and cupcakes or as involved as individual tarts. My goal is to have the oven off as much as possible during the gathering, whether it is rip-roaring or romantic.

After all, I want to take my apron off before the clock strikes midnight.

Crudites with Asian-Style Dip

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Assorted cut-up vegetables such as carrots, red bell peppers, sugar snap peas, cucumbers and broccoli

Combine first 11 ingredients in small bowl; whisk to blend. Season dip with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Place bowl with dip in center of platter. Surround with assorted vegetables and serve. Makes 1 cup.

Source: Bon Appetit, December 1998.

Parmesan-Rosemary Icebox Crackers

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt (see note)
• Pinch of white pepper
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary plus extra sprigs for garnish
• 3 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter cut into small pieces
• 1 cup (21/2 ounces) finely grated Parmesan cheese
• 5 tablespoons sour cream
• 1 large egg white, lightly beaten

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and the chopped rosemary in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the cheese and pulse until combined. Add 1 tablespoon of the sour cream at a time, pulsing each time to combine. Process until the dough comes together and is well-combined.

Transfer the dough to a clean work surface. Shape the dough into a 2-inch-wide log. Wrap the log with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Slice the well-chilled log onto 1/4-inch-thick slices. Transfer the slices to a baking sheet. Dip a sprig of rosemary into the egg white and place it in the center of 1 cracker slice. Repeat with the remaning rosemary and crackers. Bake immediately, rotating the sheet halfway through cooking, until the crackers are golden brown and firm in the center, 25-35 minutes. (Check them halfway through; you might have to flip them to get them brown on all sides. The crackers should not get too dark around the edges.) Transfer to a rack to cool. The crackers may be made a day ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature. Makes 20 crackers.

Note: Consider leaving salt out unless you like salty crackers.

Source: "Martha Stewart's Hors d'oeuvres Handbook" (Clarkson Potter, 1999).

Apple Dip with a Twist

• 11/4 cups fat-free ranch dressing
• 11/4 cups grated apple
• 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
• 3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
• Assorted fruits and vegetables for dipping

Mix the fat-free ranch dressing, grated apple, horseradish, pumpkin pie spice, lemon juice and pepper in a medium-size serving bowl and chill until serving. Makes 2 cups.

Source: http://www.allrecipes.com.

Pepper Nectar Caramelized Pears with Goat Cheese Bruschetta

• 2 Bartlett pears
• 2 ounces butter
• 1/3 cup light brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 3 tablespoons Honeypeno Pepper Nectar (see note)
• 12 slices French bread, sliced 1/4-inch thick
• 4 ounces goat cheese
• 2 tablespoons sour cream
• Salt and white pepper to taste
• Fresh parsley

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Mix goat cheese with sour cream and season. Spread over each slice of bread. Lay out on baking sheet and bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown.

Peel, core and slice pears 1/4-inch thick. Melt butter in saute pan and add pears, brown sugar, cinnamon, vanilla and Pepper Nectar. Bring to slow boil and cook for 7-8 minutes. Cook until pears are soft but have a little crunch in the middle.

To serve, spoon warm pear on top of bruschetta and garnish with fresh sprig of parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 12 hors d'oeuvres.

Note: Honeypeno Pepper Nectar is a honey and hot pepper jam. To substitute, use 3 tablespoons of honey and a couple of shakes of cayenne pepper.

Source: Emil Topel, Fancy's Specialty Market.

Best Ever Party Appetizer

• 12 ounces goat cheese
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup diced sun-dried tomatoes
• 1 cup black olives, chopped
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 3 cloves garlic, halved

Slice goat cheese into 1-inch pieces and place in a single layer on a large platter. Sprinkle olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, basil and rosemary over the cheese. Using toothpicks, insert the garlic cloves into the cheese throughout the mixture. Allow the mixture to marinate 6 hours or overnight in the refrigerator. Remove the toothpicks and serve with sliced French bread. Serves 10.

Source: http://www.allrecipes.com.

Best Hot Crab Dip

• 2 cups crabmeat
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 cup mayonnaise
• 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
• 1 cup shredded white Cheddar cheese
• 1/2 cup capers, drained
• 2 8-ounce cans artichoke hearts, drained and chopped
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper or to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon dried dill or to taste
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning or to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease an 8- by 8-inch square baking pan or an earthenware pot that doubles as a serving dish.

In a large bowl, combine crabmeat, sour cream, cream cheese, buttermilk, mayonnaise, Monterey Jack cheese, Cheddar cheese, capers, artichoke hearts, garlic, black pepper and dill. Stir until well mixed. Spoon dip into prepared baking pan. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and Old Bay Seasoning.

Bake in preheated oven until top is crusty, 15-20 minutes. Serve with crackers or cut the top off a loaf of bread. Hollow out the loaf and cube the top and the removed pieces so that they may be used for dipping. Spoon hot dip into hollow bread loaf. Serve immediately with bread pieces for dipping.

Source: http://www.allrecipes.com.

Very Easy Crab Dip

• 1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
• 1 8-ounce jar cocktail sauce
• 3/4 pound imitation crab, chopped

In a medium bowl, blend the cream cheese and cocktail sauce. Cut the imitation crab into small pieces and combine it with the mixture. Refrigerate 3 hours before serving. Makes 31/2 cups.

Source: http://www.allrecipes.com.

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