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© St. Petersburg Times, published December 28, 2001
I have received a number of questions from readers lately and will take this opportunity to answer them before the year ends.
James Dahir in Northdale has trouble with his broccoli and kohlrabi germinating. He goes on to explain that the few that did germinate died within a week.
Both these vegetables are cool-season crops, so Dahir planted them at the appropriate time. He also verified that the seeds were for the 2001 season, and kept them watered. He fears he might have nematodes, which are a problem in this area.
Here are some tips on cultivating broccoli and kohlrabi:
Plant seeds or plants in August through October and again in January and February. Aphids and cabbage worms (in broccoli) can be problematic. Feed lightly every two or three weeks, water well and harvest as ready. For broccoli, after you cut the center cluster, side shoots will continue to develop until the weather gets too hot. If they begin to bloom, snap them off at once.
Dahir says in his letter that he watered every day. This time of the year that may be too often, even for germinating seeds. Make sure the ground is not too moist, as this encourages pests and diseases. Too much water can lead to damping off. This is a stem rot that develops on newly sprouted seedlings near the soil surface, and the seedlings fall over or fail to sprout. To control, sow seeds in a sterile soil mix and water the newly sown seed with an appropriate fungicide. Instead of sowing the seeds directly into the garden soil, start the seeds in peat cups. This will give you more control over the environment.
Dahir plans to use solarization to clean up his soil in April or May. This involves preparing the soil as if for planting, raking it smooth, and watering it so it is moist 2 feet deep. Then cover the area with 2- to 6-mil plastic and seal the edges well with soil, rocks, logs, etc. Allow four to six weeks for treatment. In this length of time the soil can reach temperatures sufficient to kill many nematodes, weed seeds and soilborne fungi. This treatment will not harm the soil and can be planted immediately after the plastic is removed.
If nematodes are a problem in Dahir's garden, solarization is a nonchemical method to help control them. Most plants, both cultivated and wild, are prey to one or more species of microscopic thread or roundworms called nematodes. These pests spend most of their lives closely associated with host plants. Symptoms of nematode injury include malformed flowers, leaves, stems and roots; or dwarfed plants with poorly developed floral, foliar and root structures.
Should plant symptoms suggest that nematodes may be the problem, collect a sample of soil and roots for examination. Check with your county's cooperative extension service about a soil test.
Abdon Rodriguez of Town 'N Country has a problem with an established tree in his front yard. It was planted 12 years ago and until recently was quite healthy. About one year ago the leaves became yellowish and dry. He noticed a lot of ants around the base of the tree and used a chemical to get rid of the ants. This didn't help the health of the tree. A herbicide was used around the base of the tree to kill the grass and the tree has gotten worse.
It is hard to diagnose a problem without seeing the tree, but generally speaking, herbicides are not well-liked by trees and shrubs. It is not only the chemicals that are leached into the ground, but foliage of the tree may be affected by the vapors the chemicals give off when applied. These will often "burn" the leaves, leaving the foliage dry and brittle. It's recommended not to use large amounts of herbicide around trees or shrubs. A squirt or two applied directly to weeds should not be a problem.
Rodriguez did not tell me the species of trees, but many plants do not last as long in Florida as other areas. I refer to this as "growing themselves to death." The decline of this tree may just be an indication of old age. Plants here get little or no dormant period, which leads to quick growth but may also lead to a shorter life span. Without seeing the tree I can't offer much more that that.
Lynne Shuster of Tampa gardened extensively in Buffalo and is now trying to adjust to Florida. We all have a very sharp learning curve when we start gardening in this area. Ms. Shuster is having trouble with the petunias, impatiens, zinnias and marigolds she is planting. She transplants from 3-inch pots but finds that many of the plants seem to "wilt" almost overnight. I know I have had this experience in my garden also. Dianthus and vinca seemed to be affected in my yard. First make sure you are planting the proper time of the year.
Most of the mentioned flowers don't hold up to our humid, hot summers. Now is a great time to plant any of them. They are also susceptible to soilborne fungus, which is probably the problem. Keep the water off the foliage when watering. Water in the morning so the foliage has a chance to dry before nightfall and don't overwater. If I am unsuccessful in an area of my garden with one species of flower, I will try something different.
A reader asked about purchasing landscape fabric to protect her plants from frost. I apologize, I lost the letter but will answer her question anyway. She found that local garden centers did not carry the large sizes she requires. I searched through my references and found three online companies that carry products that may be helpful. They are www.harrodhorticultural.com, www.frostproof.com, and www.outsidepride.com. All carry fabric and Frostproof Growers Supply carries a frost protection blanket. The writer was concerned that she couldn't find fabric large enough to cover her plants. Pieces of fabric can be overlapped and, using brads, hooked together. Make sure there are no gaps between the brads to let the cold air penetrate through the seam. Hope this information is not too late to help you out.
The best to all readers in 2002, and keep enjoying your garden.