Fall in love with old Cape Cod

By RACHEL POLLACK

© St. Petersburg Times, published September 12, 1999

This charming spit of land is romantic in every sense. And the rustic towns and beaches are havens for shoppers, gourmands, sightseers, birders, artists, photographers and, naturally, lovers.

Most of us have a place that remains in our hearts long after we have seen it. Perhaps we met a first love there. Maybe we once shared time with family members no longer alive. Sometimes it is the particular beauty of the land or water that inspired us. Cape Cod is such a place.

I've explored it all, first as a child, with a child's love for sea to swim in and sand to build castles on; then, as a teen, swimming a little farther out into an ocean that changes color from blue to turquoise. And later, much later, as a first-time grandmother, spending time with my parents, my son and daughter-in-law and a precious granddaughter. Four generations (unheard of in my family) one incredible summer in Chatham, creating memories that endure.

Here at Cape Cod, my middle-age heart found love again. He and I walked beaches in November, rode bicycles along the Cape Cod Rail Trail (no trains on this line since the 1920s). We climbed the Pilgrim's Monument in Provincetown for views of Boston to the northwest and the endless Atlantic Ocean horizon to the southeast. We watched potterymaking in Dennis, off famous Route 6A (also known as the King's Highway).

And, of course, over candle-lit dinners, we talked about our wedding, looked at houses we loved but couldn't afford, and startled our children, grandchildren and friends when we announced our plans.

I showed him my favorite place, the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp -- one half-expects water sprites to come dancing up from the mist. And my fiance, as fond of history as I am, reveled in my stories. He didn't know that Paul Revere cast bells that ring today at the Congregational Church in Falmouth and the West Parish Church in Barnstable.

And he learned that Squanto, so helpful to the Pilgrims, was kidnapped with 23 other Indians by an English sea captain who sold all of them in Spain. (Squanto, who must have been smart indeed, made his way back to his Wampanoag tribe and is buried in Chatham.)

Cape Cod, a narrow, arm-bent-at-the-elbow piece of land, was left by glaciers about 15,000 years ago. As that Ice Age ended, scientists say, the ocean level rose 400 feet, leaving just the highest bits of land above water. And that was Cape Cod, named by one of its many explorers, Bartholomew Gosnold, for the vast schools of codfish he found there. In 1620, the Pilgrims arrived on their Mayflower. But long, long before them, even before the Vikings centuries earlier, the Cape belonged to the Indians.

On Cape Cod, you are surrounded by history; no doubt you will be caught up in it without realizing. At the Salt Pond Visitor Center, a replica of an Indian settlement shows their round houses, their bone harpoons and fragments of pottery and fishhooks. At the Historical Societies of Truro and Wellfleet, wampum and arrowheads are displayed. On the Cape in July, a powwow is held in Mashpee that includes a number of tribes.

Sandwich boasts a town center that looks much as it did about the town it was incorporated, in 1629. Hoxie House, built in 1637, is believed to be the oldest house on the Cape and sits in a beautiful setting on Shawme Lake -- actually two ponds with swans, ducks and geese floating.

Don't miss the Glass Museum in Sandwich, the home of one of the country's largest glass factories. The glassware displayed, dating from the 1800s, is deep ruby, sapphire blue, jade green. There are also famous lace glass and presentation pieces, hand-fashioned for presidents and other personages.

The Yesteryear Doll Museum is a must if you enjoy seeing collections of dolls from all over the world; several are 500 years old. This attraction will excite children, parents and grandparents, but call first for opening times, (508) 888-1711.

Spring, summer and autumn at Heritage Plantation in Sandwich delights the eye with 76 acres of gardens and woodlands. I love it in spring because of the rhododendrons and azaleas ablaze in glorious color and variety. There's a large collection of antique cars as well as military artifacts. Lectures and educational programs are presented from May to October, (508) 888-3300.

[Map by Anne Sappington]

On Cape Cod, romantic inns are the rule, not the exception. Most are old; a number are former ship's captain's homes or the homes of well-known locals. These are typically filled with antiques, but many have whirlpool baths and stunning views of ocean, ponds and/or carefully tended gardens.

Larger places to accommodate families are, of course, available. In Sandwich, there's the Daniel Webster Inn, which also serves a great lunch in the Conservatory Room; call (508) 888-3622. Or consider Cape Point, with indoor and outdoor swimming pools and cooked-to-order breakfasts. It's in West Yarmouth, about the mid-point of the Cape; (508) 778-1500.

If your vacation activities run to viewing birds or whales, you could probably fill every moment with wildlife. For instance, of the 700-plus species of birds seen in the United States, more than 350 have been sighted on Cape Cod.

Best places for viewing? For water birds on their way north or south, the National Wildlife Refuge at Monomoy Island. Both harbor and gray seals cavort in the water here and sun themselves on the beach, grumbling as they nudge each other for more space. Others pop up in the sea to watch tour boats cruising near the island. The Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, (508) 896-3867, and Massachusetts Audubon Society book trips.

Once hunted for oil and other body parts, whales are now viewed, photographed and "adopted" for fund-raising during the three seasons when they feed in the temperate waters off the Massachusetts coast. Cruises embark from Hyannis, Barnstable, East Dennis and Provincetown, generally with researchers and/or naturalists aboard to explain the cetaceans. The majority of whales here are humpbacks.

Adoption is inexpensive; almost all humpbacks sighted are named and photographed, each distinguished by its unusual markings. Adoption funds go toward their study and care. For trip information, contact the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce (508 362-3225). For adoption information, write The Whale Adoption Project, 70 E Falmouth Highway, East Falmouth, MA 02536.

Because the Cape is just 70 miles long and at its widest, 20 miles across (at Truro, barely 11/2 miles), it will be easy to locate some of its most interesting places:

• The most interesting boardwalk is at Sandwich Beach. Destroyed by a storm, the boardwalk was restored by townspeople. Names of donors are engraved on each board. A nice walk to a lovely view.

• Best seashore: Cape Cod National Seashore for fishing, swimming, walks on the sugar-fine sand, exploration and contemplation. This is the longest, at 44,000 acres, and it encompasses parts of Chatham, Orleans, Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro and Provincetown. Other points of interest include Salt Pond Visitor Center in Eastham and Province LandsVisitors Center in Provincetown, a working lighthouse, restored homes, Highland Golf Course in Truro, a restored cranberry bog, the beautiful and mysterious White Cedar Swamp, the site of Marconi's wireless transmission station, and many walking, biking and horseback-riding trails.

• Most famous and interesting lighthouses: Chatham Lighthouse (turn right at the end of Main Street); Nauset Light in Eastham, originally planned to keep Cape Codders from attracting ships with lanterns, causing them to founder and drawing wreckers and thieves; Highland Light in Truro, which was the first light visible to ships on this side of the Atlantic.

• Best lobster rolls: Millway Fish and Lobster Market at Barnstable Harbor, (508) 362-2760. Sit outside at wooden tables and enjoy.

• Best herring run: Airline Drive in Brewster. Sometimes called alewives, these fish must swim from salt water to fresh water to spawn; as they make their way up ladders, then back to the sea again, they depend on the force of water to carry them upwards. It's fascinating to view, even though it's a real struggle for the alewives. In April and May, more than a half-million make their way over a two-mile course. There's a seining pool and children love to help the alewives by catching them and moving them up a few ladders. In August through November, the tiny fish start their trek back to the sea; they will return in three or four years.

• Best and most interesting road: The Old King's Highway, or Route 6A. It avoids a lot of Cape traffic, which can be oppressive in summer, and it has some of the best and most interesting antique shops, generally open year-round.

Naturalist and writer Henry David Thoreau, who rarely wandered far from his land-locked space, visited Cape Cod in 1851. It was here that Thoreau discovered the sea. He roamed Provincetown, Truro and Wellfleet, watching the water and writing about it. He noted: "When people say that the Cape is small and insignificant, the Cape Codder laughs, because he knows that the Cape is vast -- it includes all the sea around it."

If you go:

Getting around: Cape Cod consists of 15 towns, and each is comprised of several villages, many of them with indistinct boundaries. Each town generally has a village of the same name. "Up" Cape and "down" Cape can be confusing until you remember that the Pilgrims landed at Provincetown, the furthest reach of the Cape, and explored "Up the Cape," which was everywhere else.

Do not depend on road signs. Instead, get town maps or the Cape Cod Vacation Map from the Chamber of Commerce. The Chamber is a fountain of information: band concerts, fishing licenses, theatre programs for kids and adults, lodging, restaurants, galleries and seasonal events. A fun outing is riding the Cape Cod dinner train; information is available at (508) 771-3800. Put this one on your listing of romance, history and good food.

Golfing there: In addition to all of the above attractions, numerous golf courses on Cape Cod are enhanced by the natural beauty of salt water marshes, cranberry bogs, gently rolling hills and, of course, ocean views. Here are just a few of the public courses:

• Bass River, (508) 760-4875
• Blue Rock Inn and Golf Course, (508) 398-1830
• Ocean Edge, (508) 896-1886
• Quashnet Valley, (508) 477-4412

For a complete listing of public courses, call the Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce, (508) 362-3225. Because of golf's popularity here, it's wise to book as far in advance as possible.

Staying there: I'm a romantic, and I've visited and stayed at several B&B I recommend these:

• Cobb's Cove in Barnstable (finches and hummingbirds love the beautiful gardens); reservations can be made for dinner, (508) 362-9356.
• In Yarmouth Port, it is the Wedgewood Inn. Some rooms have fireplaces and four-poster beds, (508) 362-5157.
• In Chatham, there's the Captain's House Inn is set on two acres; rooms have fireplaces and canopied beds, (508) 945-0127.

For a more comprehensive listing of accommodations, contact Cape Cod Chamber of Commerce or House Guests Cape Cod and Islands, Box 1881, Orleans, MA 02653, or call (508) 896-7053.

Eating there: In Dennis, the Red Pheasant. In a restored 200-year-old barn, this moderate to expensive restaurant is open year-round for dinner. Reservations: (508) 385-2133.

• In Brewster, High Brewster. With beamed ceilings and beautiful original paneling, it feels like an old country inn. A terrace overlooks Lower Mill Pond. Quite expensive. Good American cuisine, open all year. The last time I was there they didn't take credit cards, but call to be sure: (508) 896-3636.
• In Chatham, Chatham Bars Inn. Spectacular view overlooking the harbor. Continental and American food. Fairly expensive. It serves a great buffet in July and August. Reservations: (508) 945-0096. (This is also a beautiful place to stay).
• In Orleans, Land Ho! A fine drinking and eating pub, it is a local hangout. Moderate, and with no reservations or credit cards. (508) 255-5165.
• In Hyannis, Roadhouse Cafe. Cozy, with fresh seafood and an Italian menu; dine in one of several intimate rooms. Lunch, dinner and brunch are served. (508) 775-2386.

-- Freelance writer Rachel Pollack lives way inland, in Denver.

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